Well over a decade ago, when we were still producing our written newsletter, there were a lot of folks (including industry people) that read it. It had surprising reach (we even got a report that someone found it in a port-o-poddy in Cabo). In any case we got a call one day from an importer back east, a former customer if memory serves, who wanted to know if we were interested in a limited production Champagne call Henri Giraud, specifically in that case their ‘Fut de Chene’. It was expensive, but it was also glorious and it was fun having it for a time. Unfortunately, thanks to shipping and licensing realities, long distance relationships can be tenuous in this business and we subsequently lost touch with the purveyor. But w never forgot the bubbles.
A year or two, pre-Covid, we were at a restaurant in Las Vegas that had the entry level Henri Giraud on their list. Remembering how good the ‘big dog’ was those years before, we ordered it figuring it was probably worth a look. It was gorgeous and even in a busting restaurant setting it made a big impression…out of a half bottle no less! We remembered and were thrilled when we were presented with the line by a local supplier recently.
Tasting the Henri Girad Brut Nature Esprit here brought back fond memories of what we tasted in the restaurant. This had a beautiful, refined mousse, fresh and dried stone fruit nuance and a biscuit-y edge to the flavors. Lovely stuff. The short story is that the house located in Ay is under the direction of Claude Giraud, the twelfth generation at the helm (the ‘origens’ go back to 1625). The vineyards are farmed sustainably and this cuvee is 80% Pinot Nor and 20% Chardonnay raised in 3-5 year old barrels with “50% of reserve wine in perpetual reserve. Aged for at least 2 years on lees.”
This from Wine Advocate’s William Kelley, ” The latest release of Giraud’s NV Brut Esprit Nature opens in the glass with a lovely bouquet of citrus oil, mandarin, crisp yellow pears, pastry cream and blanched almonds. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and vinous, with racy acids, fine concentration and a compelling sense of integration and harmony. This is a charming, elegant bottling that’s very hard to resist. It comes warmly recommended…92 Points.” Amen to that.
We also have limited stock of the big dogs at present if you are so inclined, the ‘terrific’ Henri Giraud Brut Grand Cru Fut de Chene MV 15 (WA 96) and the ‘extraordinary’ Henri Giraud Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne 2012 (JS 99, WA 98, VM 96+).