Not everything in the wine business makes sense (in fact a lot of it doesn’t). Take for example Michel Chapoutier. Here’s a guy that makes some of the most compelling single vineyard wines in the world from iconic sites on Hermitage. Yet we can’t remember the last time we got really excited about one of the other bottlings he presents under the Chapoutier label. You rarely see these on our shelves as they are serviceable but not compelling.
Enigma? You bet. Yet this guys makes some of the best values in the wine world. He just doesn’t do it in the Rhone. His Bila Haut program in the Roussillon has been an iconic source of value since Michel bought the property in 1999. Yeah they have put out a number of memorable specialty bottlings during that time, but it is their bread-and-butter entry level offerings that amaze the most, vintage in and vintage out.
The beautifully appointed Bila-Haut (Chapoutier) Cotes Du Roussillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rouge 2017 hits that mark again. Since it is one of the first 2017 reds to hit the floor we can’t make any sweeping statements about the vintage. But if this wine is any indication, it’s looking good. The fruit component suggests red and black fruits, some white pepper, tea, and a subtle underpinning of slatey minerality. There’s plenty of energy and urgency to the fruit and an underly lift comparable to the 2016.
While we aren’t necessarily in agreement with Jeb Dunnuck’s suggestion that this is a doppelganger for a Saint Joseph, and see more of the higher toned Grenache in the mix, he got the rest right, “The 2017 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila Haut reminds me of an impressive St Joseph (despite having lots of Grenache in the blend) with its black raspberry, white pepper, and leafy herb aromas and flavors. It’s seamless, elegant, and balanced, with both acidity and richness. Put this in a blind lineup of Northern Rhônes and shock your friends. ..92 points.” As always, a fine buy at $12.98.