Tannat doesn’t have a lot of champions out in the wine world. While it is the staple grape of the relatively obscure appellation of Madiran in western France, and there are some skilled practitioners there crafting big, chewy, substantial reds, there are far too many course, ferociously tannic examples out there for the grape to ever become a ‘mainstream’ favorite. It is not grown very many places. For some reason, however, Tannat was selected as the poster child for Uruguay’s reds. Here the grape seems to have a completely different personality and the Garzon Tannat Single Vineyard Uruguay 2015 is a best of breed example demonstrating what we are talking about.
The versions from this part of the world have a sense of refinement rare for the varietal and Garzon, by far the biggest ‘dog’ in Uruguayan viticulture, has taken it to a new level. Weighty and full flavored, big with a surprising level of polish, there are plenty blueberry and mulberry fruit notes to be enjoyed here, with underlying accents of minerality. It’s a fine tipple and expresses itself in a way we hadn’t really considered for Tannat.
The Garzon Tannat Single Vineyard Uruguay 2015 has raised a few eyebrows besides ours, garnering a Wine Spectator 91, Wine Enthusiast 91 and James Suckling 92. Sucklings comments, though characteristically brief, to paint the correct picture, “This is round and very silky with a lovely texture and intensity. Full body, round and polished tannins. Lots of blueberry, cherry and hints of mineral and stone.” Doesn’t sound like a typical Tannat but then it isn’t typical compared to most people’s experience and it’s well worth the $25.98 price tag.
If you are still afraid, you can get into their very tasty, the Garzon Tannat Reserve Uruguay 2016 (Suckling 92, $14.98) offers a lower cost ticket into the wonderful world of Uruguayan Tannat. Sucklings notes are again enthusiastic, “Iodine, ink, tar, crushed stones and dark plum essence. This has all the hallmarks of a fruity Tannat, but it’s in no way too much. It combines a lovely firm tannin backbone with tangy acidity, which carries all the way to the savory finish.” In truth we think the ‘Single Vineyard’ is the star but the ‘Reserve’ is a superb value not only among Uruguayan Tannats but all red wines in this price range. Thanks to Senor Garzon, the time has come for you to fire up the grill and get a little Tannat in your life.