A lot of you already know about things like Sancerre Rosé and Sancerre Rouge. They have been interesting ‘alternatives’, but not necessarily something to seek out. It seems that is changing a little bit and, while we have to allow for the fact that the vintages had an influence, we can recall too many cases where such wines could be stars in broader categories.
What are we getting at. Well, first off, two of the best rosés we have had this year have been from… Sancerre! That is hard to fathom in the sea of pink wine that has gushed forth this year, and we’ll admit to being just as surprised we were compelled to say it as you might be hearing it. It all started the day we were filming a piece with Sancerre maestro Alphonse Mellot. His 2016 traditional Sancerres were spectacular, by the way, but we expected that. What got us scratching our heads even with all of the serious juice that was on the table was the Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rose La Moussiere 2016.
This single-vineyard pink made from 100% Pinot Noir from a horse-plowed, limestone-rich, south-facing rolling hillside hits you up from with the classic strawberry fruit that Pinot-based rosés tend to show, but the subtle layers of insistent minerality are a bonus. Can’t remember anything from Burgundy at this level and it’s half the price of some of those upscale Provence pinks and can play with some pretty serious dishes.
Not long after that we were presented with Andre Dezat Sancerre Rosé 2016 , an estate that, according to the small importer who now brings it in, has not had much presence in the U.S. until recently, having big clients in the U.K.. Glad this made it across the pond. From soils that are limestone, sandy clay, and flint, this one really packs a mineral bent to the fruit.
Vinous’ Josh Raynolds’ notes ring true, “Brilliant orange-pink. Fresh strawberry, tangerine and honeysuckle on the mineral-accented nose. Bright and nervy on the palate, offering brisk red berry and orange pith flavors and a touch of white pepper. Closes stony and taut, showing good focus and a refreshing suggestion of bitter quinine.” A vivid, character-filled pink that will get your attention.
Maybe the biggest surprise of this trio is the Domaine Naudet Sancerre Rouge 2015. Over the years we have slugged through countless undernourished Sancerre Rouges, Alsace Pinot Noirs and German Spatburgunders, many of which cost a lot more than this one. But we dare say, here, you should not only consider this a pretty tasty, surprisingly user friendly Sancerre Rouge, but a consideration for a house Pinot!
This can hang with Pinots from anywhere and, though it is clearly more delicate than something from Santa Lucia Highlands (weight-wise think Central Otago), there is plenty of ripe cherry fruit to ‘bite into’ here. Red berries and cherries, some earth and mineral, cool-climate tactile feel, all with the ripeness provided by the 2015 vintage. Time will tell if this was a ‘one-off’, or some sort of break-out for the domaine. From a 16-hectare estate founded in 1985 (with 3.5 hectare planted to Pinot…vines 20-45 years-old), this sees no wood and has modest alcohols (12.5%). A bright, fresh, engaging Pinot.