In ancient growing areas, there are families whose names become inexorably connected to the region through long time association and success. Reverdy in Sancerre is such a name where the reputation is associated with one house in particular, but the name through extended familial connections appears on many labels. On Chablis, the name Dauvissat is a revered one for those who appreciate the best in traditional styling. Vincent and Rene Dauvissat are the icon source and among the most respected in all of Chablis alongside Raveneau, names notwithstanding. But a family that has been in an area for a long time should be expected to have some sort of family tree.
We have sold a number of V&R Dauvussat’s Chabis over the years, as well as a few things from extended family members Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat. Agnes et Didier Dauvissat are new to us and, themselves, are distant cousins who worked in vineyards but, prior to 1987, owned no vines. Their estate is in the town of Beine about ten minutes west of Chablis.
Thanks to the familial connection, Didier did do his apprenticeship with Vincent. There are three different estates with this Dauvissat moniker, this being the youngest. But whatever the gene is for making good Chablis, these folks seem to have inherited it. We tasted three wines from the estate, a Petit Chablis, Chablis ‘villages’, and a Beauroy 1er Cru from the 2017 vintage.
While we would happily consume any one of them, the Agnes et Didier Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 2017 was simply too good to say no to. This is a powerful, classic Chablis with intense minerality and salinity exploding out of the pear/citrus fruit. Stop and smell the rocks? This Chablis grabbed our attention even among an impressive lineup of other and the authoritative palate and overt ‘Chablisness’ made it most memorable.
Since this plot, called the Cote de Savant, is located on the slope that sits above the pond, the presence of the water has the micro-climatic effect of mediating temperatures when the weather gets warm. The vines are hitting 20 years old with this vintage. This particular presentation added a lot of information to the database. This Dauvissat definitely has chops and is another to pay attention to. The 2017 vintage in Chablis is at least very good to excellent based on what we have tasted thus far, but there is precious little of this delicious, well-priced ($24.98) Premier Cru to go around (only about 500 bottles are produced).