We’ll make our basic case right up front. As we have explained many times, ‘value’ is a relative term. In no place is that harder to define than Burgundy but we think we have a pretty good formula. Simply, find a talented producer that hasn’t been discovered yet, and get them to the back door as cheaply as possible. If you are looking for labels that will impress your friends, notoriety costs. If you are looking for delicious Burgundy, our method works pretty well.
We introduced this new (to us) label, Galopiere, a few weeks ago with a blockbuster Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean 2020 for a price less than what you’d pay for a villages bottling from some high profile producer. Burgundy is packed with small, unknown, high quality producers. The trick is finding them. Galopiere was quite the find.
The Fournier family, who own and produce Galopiere, have been in the wine trade for over a century starting with Eusebe Fournier in 1882. A century later, in 1982, Gilbert Fournier’s parents gave him a plot of Bourgogne Rouge. Since that time Gilbert has been expanding the domaine, adding plots in Meursault, Ladoix, Aloxe Corton, Savigny-les-Beaune, and Pommard. He added this plot of Chassagne Clos St. Jean in 2010 and a parcel of Chassagne Morgeot in 2016. The estate now totals 11 hectares (about 27 acres).
Their vineyard philosophy involves taking things backward. They have spent great effort to recreate the flora and fauna of an earlier time with the idea that this natural, historic harmony is important for the vine’s performance. Like a lot of vintners, their intent is to reflect and express the terroir. They aren’t interested in talking about oak regimens. In their words, “our wines offer a journey on the original typicity of the terroirs and not on an excessive oakiness which hides everything, even what is missing.” They harvest by hand and perform several ‘sorts’ and ferment with natural yeasts.
Naturally, given the success of that Chassagne, we went back to our purveyor to inquire what other little gems they might have from this promising source. Their response was this pair of wines, though quantities precluded a broad email offer.
The Domaine de la Galopiere Savigny-les-Beaune 2019 is sources from three different vineyards, contiguous Aux Fourches and Les Pimentiers and Dessus des Vermot at the western end of the appellation. The harvest is manual, fermentation is done in traditional open vats and the finished wine sees 12 months in barrels ranging from 10-20% new.
Clean, pure, and expressive, this has loads of bouyant dark cherry fruit as a main thrust with tender edges and an efficient but not intrusive lift of acidity. Subtle notes of forest floor and fresh tobacco punctuate the fruit tones but it is a bright display of that hedonistic fruit aspect that has been a consistent theme of the 2019s. Delicious red Burgundy for under $30? Yes please.
The Domaine de la Galopiere Ladoix Blanc 2020 is a bit of a different proposition in that is from the best white wine vintage in Burgundy since 2014, but with perhaps a little more flesh than the typical ’14. From a single climat more or less in the middle of the hill (Le Clou) with classic clay-limestone and marl soils. If you recall some of the unique Ladoix bottlings we have featured from further up the hill that have profiles that remind one of Corton-Charlemagne, this one has a little of that almond and white flower note as well. The nose is delicate with spice, orange, and white stone fruit elements as well. In the mouth it’s quite flavorful, fresh and focused yet elegant and light on its feet. Very pretty Chardonnay in a style that can only be done here, and nicely priced under $35.
As we said before, since this is our first go-round with Galopiere we have no feel for how much two excellent vintages contributed to the outcomes here. We know that our sourcing had a lot to do with the great prices. But given what we’ve seen so far, you can bet we are gong to keep an eye on these folks moving forward and enjoy these for now.