The California wine industry is full of passionate artists who want to create something unique and exciting. There are lots of folks out there experimenting with varietals grown in places that are nothing like where the grapes originated. We could cite examples ad nauseum but why? Most miss the mark. But, it’s really fun when something comes along that beats the odds and presents a sensational and distinctive alternative to what is out there. It doesn’t happen all that often, but it does happen. If you asked us if we’d get excited about a California Picpoul and a skin contact Trousseau Gris, we’d likely have said no, yet here we are.
That whole ad campaign a few years back about “think different”…the folks at Two Shepherds definitely do. We’ll start with the Two Shepherds Picpoul Vineyard Windmill Vineyard 2019. Typically Picpoul is grown near the Mediterannean or as the base grape for spirits in more northerly climes. Conveniently coming from southern France, not far from traditional areas for farming oyster, these wines are crisp, sleek, and a little salty.
The Two Shepherds version has the snap and salinity, but a much richer middle that gives this version a whole new feel. The Windmill Vineyard, in the Dunnigan Hill east of Napa, is a long way from the ocean. Yet it has the whiff of the sea and snappy edge of some of the Euro versions, uniquely combined with a rounder midpalate.
Farmed organically, this 6 barrel lot was fermented and aged in 50% stainless steel, and 50% neutral puncheon (double-sized barrel)) for 8 months. Mouthwatering acidity, weight and aromatics, fire this up with grilled fish or seafood. While rare on this side of the Atlantic, this was a surprising effort.
Equally ecclectic, the Two Shepherds Trousseau Gris Skin-Fermented Fanucchi Vineyard 2019 is perhaps a little more difficult to explain. We sold versions of Peter Fanucchi’s Trousseau Griz many years ago, so we have had experience with the grape and the site. But the Two Shepherds version is a completely different animal.
First off, Trousseau Gris has a pinkish-grey skin, so the extended skin contact gives the wine a pinkish hue as well as a certain tactile impression. Fannuchi’s is the only planting in the state, from a 40-year-old vineyard in the Russian River Valley. It was fermented with native yeast on the skins for five days to extract color, flavor and texture, then aged in neutral barrels for 6 months. This vintage was destemmed which allowed the fruit to really shine through.
The flavors run from mineral to cranberry and dried strawberry, with an intriguing textural feel. Think of it as a really distinctive rose or a somewhat brighter, richer version of something from a grape like Tibouren (yeah, that probably doesn’t help a lot of you). In any case, we thought this pair was really distinct and interesting and they both should absolutely blow up with food. Definite wine geek alert here.