The Haute Cotes refers to some of Burgundy’s highest vineyards along the crest of the generally east facing hills, typically above the more famous vineyards on the upper slopes. Usually fairly rugged land with the vines planted in more rock than dirt, these are typically firm and sturdy and require a bit of time to come around. The difference a little bit more sunshine makes is that there is more ripe fruit over the typically edgy acidity and sometimes stern minerality. That changes the whole personality of these wines for the good and gives them a more fruit driven persona.
The Clairs have owned parcels in the region for generations but sold mainly to negociants. Denis founded the domaine in 1986 with the intention of bottling his own wine. Here the dark red leaning to blue fruits has a tension with the more typical fresh acidity to create a rather compelling mouthful, and the extra weight from the vintage makes the whole proposition work in a way that it rarely does giving the wine a tenderness and weight that will appeal to a larger audience, though there is still plenty of tension from these elevated sites.
The Francois & Denis Clair Haut Cotes de Beaune 2015 comes from 35 year-old vines situated with a south-east exposure looking out over Maranges. All hand harvested, the wine sees 15 months in vat. What a difference a little bit more flesh can make and, once again, the area’s more typical lack of fame helped keep the price down. It’s a rather screaming bargain for a red Burgundy in the in-demand 2015 vintage at under $20.