First off, our apologies for not getting to this sooner, though it isn’t entirely our fault. Given that Memorial Day has come and gone, we have to consider ourselves somewhat remiss in how little we have done promoting pink wine so far. The season is upon us. Now, in our defense, we have been a little preoccupied with a few other topics.
The 2016 Bodeaux prearrivals campaign demands a certain commitment of time. It is the most important vintage to offered on pre-arrival since the 2010s, and possibly could provide the best opportunities for consumers since 2005. But it is a slippery slope because, as good as the wines are, we have mixed emotions about how the campaign will play out given the remarkable sea of other choices there are out there today of all kinds of wine, and how many folks are willing to put up today’s money for something that isn’t coming for two years and really won’t be drinkable until a decade or so later. In that sense it is a historic campaign in terms of what it will say about the whole futures market moving forward.
We also are spending a lot of time evaluating more deals in the marketplace than we ever remember seeing. You’ve seen some of the stuff we have been tossing out there, and those are only the ones that pass muster. There are nearly five times that many don’t even initiate a serious conversation, but we still have to look. Finally, we are still wading through a ton of pink wines brought to us by the Johnny-come-latelys. We have already found plenty to get us through the summer in style, but you never know when the next gem will appear.
Finally, our choice of the word ‘roundup’ was made because of alliteration. We couldn’t possibly cover all of the highlights of our current selection in one piece. So we’re going to give you a few that come to mind so that you can start to get your pinks in order for the summer. We’ll start with something that kind of surprised us. Domestic rosés all to often lack the acidity and texture to be refreshing. It’s nobody’s fault. It’s just warmer here, generating higher alcohols and lower acidity, and too many folks are getting into the act just to cash in on the fad. While we are getting a lot better at it here at home, far too many vintners here don’t have the experience in this arena and most of the local pinks are at a disadvantage outside their own tasting room.
The Andrew Murray Esperance Rose 2016 was a pleasant exception to that generalization. It is nearly 100% Cinsault that is estate grown for making rosé (as opposed to a saignee of red wine). Light, fresh, clean, there’s dried strawberry and red melon with an impression of minerality, a pleasing tactile crispness, and the flavors are dry. In the winery’s own words, “this is definitely not a kool-aid Rosé of yesteryear from California”. It got the attention of some serious Francophiles when it comes to pinks (us). Pleasing juice, and the price makes perfect sense (far too many domestic pinks, besides being a little flabby, are kind of expensive). A well conceived effort.
The Chateau de Trinquevedel Rose Tavel 2016 has been a staple here for some time. Tavel has a certain cache when it comes to pink wine, which makes some of them a little expensive for what they are. This small family farm makes classic Tavel with fresh acidity but also the defining mid-palate weight and somewhat deeper color. The blend here is 45% Grenache, 24% Cinsault, 15% Clairette, 10% Mourvèdre, and 6% Syrah. The flavors roll to red berry and red melon, with delicate underpinnings of spice and garrigue, and a little rounder midpalate than pinks from further south. Far too easy to drink and very food friendly.
One of the consistent pink wine bargains over the last few years is the Le Cengle Cotes de Provence Rose Vieilles Vignes 2016, pale in color, delicate and crisp on the palate but with more going on than the visuals and price ($12.98) would lead you to expect. The blend is 25% Cinsault, 35% Syrah, 35% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre, but there are refreshing citrus and white peach tones that give it a little bit of white wine impression. Certainly a candidate for go-to pink given the price and performance.
Domaine Tempier has made Bandol rosé a ‘thing’ almost by themselves. There are some wonderful examples that cost nearly half as much because the market hasn’t caught on to yet. The Gros Nore Bandol Rose 2016 is a sensational follow-up to their outstanding 2015. Former boxer Alain Pascal fashions this blend of 50% Mourvèdre, 25% Cinsault and 25% Grenache from grapes grown in clay soils. Red fruit, minerals, a hint of honey at the crest, some ‘orangy’ citrus streaks, and just a touch of that cool Mourvedre earthiness, this is pretty serious as pinks go if you want to dive into it, but can play the casual, delicious quaff if called upon to do so.
Finally, here’s your absolute bargain, the Mourgues du Gres Fleur d’Eglantine Costieres de Nimes Rose 2016. We have worked with this estate for years and they are usually in the mix with both pinks and reds. To be honest, they don’t ‘hit’ everything every year. But they have had a number of efforts that have ‘nailed it’ and, when they do, it provides a remarkable value performances. The 2016 Rose is one of those ‘hit’ times. The main thrust is Mourvedre with small parts of Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah. The wine starts with red berries, slides into an orange and garrigue note and finishes with a little salinity. At $9.98, it’s party time.