Portugal in general is still a work in progress as far as quality. It is substantially better than it was a couple of decades ago and we are finding a few things to get excited about. We have sold our share of highly-rated, high-priced elite dry reds from ambitious projects in the Douro, and we understand that is where many vintners feel they need to be to get respect in the international markets. But there are a lot of big reds with big scores vying to get attention from all over the wine world, so are such Portuguese versions really making a contribution to broadening the selection?
Over time, our biggest knock on Portuguese wines has been winemaking. You’ve got sunshine, a hospitable climate, but far too many things we see suffer from over-cropping and marginal vinification. Again, things are way better than they used to be and there is an overall rise in quality. But to us, the most enjoyable finds from Portugal are the ones that taste, well, Portuguese.
In a place where most of the wines are varietal blends, there is a definitely spicy, expressive character that is evident in the best examples of the reds. ‘International styling’, which some Portuguese producers are shooting for, means to us that they are dumbing down some of the joyous character that the most compelling Portuguese reds have to conform to a perceived style target.
We much prefer the boisterous, spicy, almost wild fruit components that distinguish the great little Portuguese wines from the rank and file, more commercial styles. We are pretty selective about what we present but we found another little nugget to add to our short list.
The Duquesa Maria Alentejo Superior 2017 hails from one of the southernmost growing regions in Portugal. As is the custom, this is a blend of 40% Aragonez (what they call Tempranillo in this part of the country), 30% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Touriga Nacional and 10% Trincadeira grown here in limestone soils.
It’s quite warm here so ripeness is not usually a problem. The grapes are destemmed and then see a couple of days of cold-soaking before being fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel after which about half of the juice goes into used French and American oak for six months.
The color is dark and fairly saturated (something that can be attributed in part to the Alicante Bouchet), there’s a rush of sweet, honest dark cherry and plum fruit with some spice, earth, and mineral flecks. Direct and easy-going, yet with a certain flair that is very Portuguese, this is that candidate for grillin’ and quaffin’. There is ample weight to stand up to a variety of foods but there is that breezy flavor interest that shows what Portugal seems to be able to do with ease. It isn’t necessarily meant to be ‘contemplated’ but rather consumed with a certain relish and it performs well for a pretty low fare.