This is a difficult category for a lot of people because of the diversity. The basic story is that a Ripasso spends time on the lies of the Amarone which enriches and amplifies the Valpolicella. So what is it? Is it the glorious and memorable (and very expensive) efforts from the likes of Dal Forno, Tommaso Busoll, and Accordini? Or is it the sweetish, slightly oxidized Amarone wanna-be that, sadly, too many are.
While there are some exceptional and identifiable labels out there, all too often it is a crapshoot. So when we find something new that works at a high level, we get very excited. The Corte Sant’Alda Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore Campi Magri 2015 is one of those rare finds that brings the magic. The first order of business for this kind of wine is texture. There must be a luxurious mouth feel, smooth edges from front to back, and, in the best cases, weightiness without being ponderous. Bingo, the Corte Sant’Alda has it all.
Dark fruit, a little bit of a roasted character yet fresh at every point, this wine is deceptively full sized and definitely grabs your attention. For those who know the genre, this is a beautiful version that is among the best examples we have had at any price. If you are more of the New World school, we’d be surprised if you had many Italian wines sporting this kind of palate weight and plush demeanor. The warm 2015 harvest was great for this genre of wine and this came from a densely planted vineyard of head trained bush vines farmed biodynamically. Corte Sant’Alda Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore Campi Magri 2015 then sees a 24 month sojourn is large and is made from ‘the usual suspects’ (Corvina Grossa, Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara).
James Suckling took a shine to this one as well, commenting “An expansive yet elegant nose of dried mulberries, blueberry tart, mince pies and hints of ash and bark. The palate taps into the wonderful freshness but there is also a nicely structured palate, grainy tannins and a pretty finish. What a find! Drink now. … 95 Points!” What a find indeed.
