This is a story that spans three centuries. We are speaking of the historic Cienega Valley located near Hollister between Hwy 101 and the 5 Freeway. Probably the only time most folks have heard of Hollister at all, except as a freeway exit or a clothing brand, is as the claimant as one of the ‘earthquake capitals of the world’ (along with nearby Coalinga). In fact, the San Andreas fault not only runs through the town of Hollister, but through the main building of the winery we are featuring here, Derose.
It all starts way back in 1854 when a French immigrant called Theophile Vaché was marketing his vinous wares in nearby San Bautista. It goes through German immigrant William Palmtag who won medals his wines at the 1900 World Expsotion in Paris, and later on involved California giants of their respective times, Almaden and Heublein. During that last Heublin phase, probably due to that company’s historic meltdown, these grand old vineyards on this terraced hillside suffered a bit from neglect.
The DeRose and Cedolini families purchased this estate in 1988 and subsequently rescued and revitalized 100 acres of overgown vineyards including 40 that were planted before 1900. Historical research also found that this is the oldest existing winery in California as well. This isn’t one of the first areas people think of with regard to fine wine, however. In fact we’d be a little surprised if many folks even knew of it. There are no plans to put a “Wine Train’ in the Cienega Valley, but there are very special and unique wines produced here that make this an important wine stop nonetheless.
DeRose Cabernet Pfeffer Cienega Valley Old Vines 2015 ($24.98)-Four of the 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer that exist in California are here at Derose. This obscure varietal is said to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and either Gros Verdot or Trousseau (depending on who you ask). The real issue is that it doesn’t taste like Cabernet but something entirely different. Lighter on its feet, without the hard tannic back bone, it leans more flavor wise to dark cherry and pomegranate with a lifted palate feel and notes of pepper (pfeffer is the German word for ‘pepper’). Stylistically unique, it plays best with pork, chicken, duck and salty cured meats. From very old vines planted between 1865 and 1905, this is a one-of-a-kind wine but quite the engaging experience.
DeRose Negrette Cienega Valley Old Vines 2015 ($39.98)-Speaking of one-of-a-kind wine experiences, this is the only varietal Negrette bottling we know of from this part of the world, and maybe anywhere. A dark grape with primarily dark red and black fruit character laced with notes of smoke, brown spices and white pepper, this is a substantial red with rich, smooth old vine fruit. Again very pleasing and rather complex, a plush, ample texture with some supporting ripe but slightly chewy tannins, this is a wine of substance with plenty of stuffing but that doesn’t cross over to extreme ripeness. Some of these vines are 120 years old and the old-viney complexity is a big part of the wines appeal. Grapes harvested at less than one ton to the acre.
DeRose Zinfandel Old Vines Cedolini Vineyard Cienega Valley 2015 ($29.98)–This one is love at first sniff for any true fan of Zinfandel. It will also win a lot of converts to the varietal among those who don’t think of Zinfandel as ‘serious’ wine. One good whiff of the spicy, brambly, old-vine berry aromas transports us back to some of Zinfanel’s greatest hits from the breakout efforts of the early 1990s. DeRose has 15 acres of Zinfandel vines originally planted on their own roots in the late 1890s. Dry farmed on steep hillsides in Cienega Valley, the head-trained vines produce highly pigmented grapes inscribed with a spicy mountain terroir. This kind of profile is very hard to create. You either have the special old vines and the understanding of what to do with them, or you don’t. Captivating aromatics and tender, ripe, plush but still buoyant fruit on the palate are on stunning display here. This is the essence of what ‘old vines’ are all about. In all of the wines we taste we’re lucky to run into two or three a year like this one. A rich-yet-balanced expression of Zin-ness, with flecks of the area’s spice and faintly chalky mineral terroir, this wine has incomparable harmony and surprising complexity. Everyone should taste this just to see what Zinfandel at the top of its game can be, and Zinfandel fans simply should not miss it, period!
This is a one of a kind property with a unique story and some very special wines. History can be very tasty sometimes and, for as unique and distinctive as these wines are, they are very attractively priced. Quantities, as you might guess, are limited.