Pinot Noir has been a hot topic for some time now. And the usual discussion about whether the pricing and performance is currently more exciting in California’s Central Coast or Russian River, or in special vintages from the Motherland (France), is the norm. But with global warming, there are new considerations to the Pinot discussion, particularly in a juicy vintage like 2015. Like …Germany?
No, we are not talking about some leafy tasting, brownish Spätburgunder that garners little interest outside of Deutschland itself. We are now talking about extremely appealing examples of German Pinot Noir these days, wines that are competitive on the world stage. At the top of our list in that category is today’s selection from Meyer-Näkel.
This player is no surprise either to us any more, though we must admit our surprise from our first trip to the region more than a decade ago. We have sold several vintages of the Meyer-Näkel wines since that time and they only seem to be getting better. Werner Näkel himself is credited with putting the Ahr on the map internationally back in the 1990s and nothing has changed, other than the Pinots have taken on a deeper fruit component and a more tender mouth feel, while never losing the lift, clarity and purity that make them special. The Ahr Valley has a long history with the varietal and is only elevated by the current weather trends.
Yes there are easier things to sell than German Pinot Noir, but the quality at Meyer-Näkel has earned them the right to be included in any serious discussion about the varietal. As you might have guessed, the 2015 vintage that was a watershed for the Rieslings was also very kind to Pinot Noir. So the Meyer Nakel Spätburgunder (aka Pinot Noir) Estate 2015 has a bit more flesh and sweetness on the palate, making it perhaps the most ideal ‘crossover’ Pinot they have made. Yet it still speaks of the unique micro-climate in this river valley.
Lively cherry and red berry fruit is accented with some smoky tones, cinnamon, slatey minerality, and a whiff of damp forest. The fruit takes hold on the palate but there is a perfect tension that keeps everything bright and expressive. For under $30, it can hold its own in any arena, with the personality best pegged as somewhere between Oregon and the Cote de Beaune, but with its own spin. A must for Pinot lovers.