Wines

92 Points! The 2021 Dogliani Superiore Siri D'Jermu takes on a bit more pigment and pours a rich purple. It is flush with fresh herbs, black plum, and menthol and is full-bodied but not heavy, with notes of black cherry, turned soil, and cracked pepper. It is more structured as well, with ripe tannins. Drink 2024-2030. - Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com

From the importer: The most important wine of the estate, the Dolcetto for the top wine is sourced from parcels found in prime positions, as well as the oldest vines of the estate.  The 7-year wait from harvest to release reflects the importance of the “San Fereolo” to Nicoletta, who carefully tends the wine through its 3 years in large barrel before a 3-4 year hibernation in the bottle cellar.  Our spring 2015 tasting of each vintage from 2001 to 2008 revealed a consistent vein of dense, warm fruit, which spoke of the Langhe source.  Fresh mineral notes, mint, licorice and savory elements permeated each expression, while a lively freshness was alive in every wine, including the 14-year old 2001 vintage.

From the importer: Nicoletta Bocca is known as a maverick for her ultra-long aged Langhe cuvées, among the finest in the entire region. “Valdibà” is her youthful expression of the Dogliani DOCG, made all in steel cuve, which shows in the fresh brightness of the wine. Nicoletta considers this to be classical Dolcetto, striking all of the notes one would expect from the variety, with a confident tannic backbone. From southeast and northwest-facing vines in the Barracone and San Fereolo vineyards in the Valdibà subsection of Dogliani.

• The vines are grown in the commune of Chavanay, called the “Vignes d’à coté” because it’s mainly vines next this appellation.
• The soil is granitic and alluvial. Naturel cover cropping to avoid erosion.
• No insecticides with respect to soil and vine balance, few treatments (depending on weather and the necessary) and small amount of organic fertilizer. Vigor and yield control, leaf-thinning and green harvesting to promote grape ripening.

96 Points! Brilliant all the way, the 2020 Hermitage Chante-Alouette Blanc is a white readers should snatch up. All Marsanne from a mix of both granitic sites and more loess sites, brought up a mix of demi-muids and tank, it has a gorgeous perfume of honeyed peach, quince, crushed stone, and toast. With bright acidity, medium to full body, beautiful mid-palate depth, and a great finish, it will benefit from just a few years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years or more. It’s a quintessential Hermitage Blanc. - Jeb Dunnuck

95 Points! Shows impressive concentration, with a layer of melon, quince and heather supported by a foundation of wet stone. Lightly honeyed and well-defined, the palate shows beautiful integration and drive. Reveals echoing notes of dried verbena, white tea tannins and salted, buttery brioche on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2037. - Wine Spectator

A star is born! From the importer: Daniele’s Dolcetto style is led by sweet, bright, and rich floral aromas of an expansive and sunny field of flowers in bloom after a spring rain. Red fruit charges second, though not blaring fruit like a lower-altitude sandy soil Fleurie or Morgon. Spice is third: think Brouilly/Côte de Brouilly/Marsannay. The fourth, which seems an inevitable part of every Dolcetto, is its earthy, savory components that begin their journey in the caboose but saunter their way to first-class. Their west-facing, eye-watering, hazy Piemontese sunset, high-altitude Dolcetto vineyard buffers the cool Alpine gusts before they charge over Novello and down into the belly of Barolo. We often speak of the predominance of soil elements in the terroir, but this mountain-fresh Zephyrian wind imparts the tension Daniele captures in the latest version of Dolcetto. On day two, it loses nothing. Rather it gains in suppleness and filigree texture, remaining as good, if not better, than its stunning first hours open.

Sourced from 2.2 hectares in different vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, at altitudes of 370-400m. The oldest vines date back to 1965, while the youngest were planted in 2006.

96 Points! A big, ripe, opulent, and sexy white, the 2021 Hermitage Blanc has honeyed orchard and quince-like fruit, medium to full body, some acacia flower and spicy nuances, a layered, decadent mouthfeel, and that rare mix of freshness and richness that's so hard to deliver. - Jeb Dunnuck

80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne, 40-50 year-old vines...

Marsanne 85%, Roussanne 15% from 30-40 year-old vines in Le Paradis sur Mauves, La Ribaudy sur Chavanay and Rochecourbe sur St Pierre de Boeuf

92 Points! A step up, the 2021 Saint Joseph Le Lombard Blanc is more rounded and complete, with beautiful honeyed quince, spice, and dried herbs in a medium-bodied, round, supple package that's already a joy to drink. - Jeb Dunnuck

The Ascheri 2021 Langhe Dolcetto Nirane is bright and fruity with lovely freshness and easy-drinking appeal. It opens to dark cherry and wild strawberry with hints of violet and fragrant peach blossom. Dolcetto, especially when portrayed with the immediate freshness and aromatics you get here, is a wine to enjoy immediately. Why not? Even tonight with a wood-fired artisanal pizza. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

Winemaker Notes: "When Jenn and I were dating we were up in San Francisco eating at La Ciccia, a great little Italian food spot, and asked the server for something to drink that they thought would go with our food choices and that also would be a bit off of the beaten path. The wine we ended up being served was awesome and my first time drinking a skin contact white. Over the years as this style of wine has gained popularity I have tasted many more. For me there is an “orange wine” style which to me is more funky, austere and sometimes flawed. In my mind there is the other side of skin contact whites, the bottles you keep going back to, unctuous and intriguing. So this is not orange wine, meaning it wasn’t made from oranges and it isn’t orange in color just to fit a trend. It is about ⅔ marsanne and ⅓ grenache blanc, both from Demetria Estate. Each variety was fermented separately on the skins, marsanne for two weeks and grenache blanc for about 5 days. Color is light amber, nose is fresh cut flowers and flavor is deep while remaining delicate. As I taste this wine I want crudo scallops or even better a good ole quesadilla mar y tierra."

94 Points! The 2018 Hermitage Chante-Alouette Blanc just about always delivers incredible quality, and it sells for a fraction of the single vineyard releases. Classic Hermitage notes of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, acacia flowers, and spice all flow from this richer, beautifully textured, balanced Hermitage that has enough density and depth to keep for 10-15 years or more. It's well worth seeking out and I'd be happy with a case in the cellar. - Jeb Dunnuck

94 Points! Lovely, with a mix of fresh and dried peach, yellow apple and quince flavors, along with honeysuckle, salted butter and heather notes. The long finish has a nice tease of quinine for contrast amid the fruit. - Wine Spectator

92 Points! A fresh and bright dolcetto with bright cherry and lemon-peel aromas and flavors. Medium body. Crisp finish. Drink now. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! The 2019 Dogliani Superiore Vigne Sori' San Martino is a big, dense wine. Black cherry, smoke, tobacco, game, incense, dried herbs and rose petal build in a Dogliani that exudes power and breadth. Another year or two in bottle will help soften the formidable tannins. Readers will find a wine of tremendous distinction. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media