Wines

95 Points! The effusive sliced-pear and white-peach aromas introduce you to this extraordinary, contemporary interpretation of this grape, which is so often dismissed as old-fashioned. The abundant fine tannins remind me of natural wines, but there’s a level of brightness here that’s totally Alpine and gives it remarkable drive at the very long wet-stone finish. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

94 Points! The Köfererhof 2021 Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner (of which 90% sees stainless steel and only 10% see oak) starts off with a dusting of crushed limestone and rock salt. That delicate veiling lifts to reveal white fruit, grapefruit and quince. Then, after that wave of beautiful high-acidity fruit passes, the wine reverts back to those distinctive mineral notes that recall the gravel soils of glacier origin found in the vineyard. The wine leaves your senses feeling absolutely refreshed and revived. It should be fascinating to see how this 12,000-bottle release evolves over the next 10 years or more. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com