Wines

From the winery: Our 2021 Pickberry Merlot comes from the firm, clay-based soils, about 600' up the northern slopes of Sonoma Mountain. Mother Nature pushed ripeness faster on us than in previous years, trading out lighter herbaceous notes of previous vintages for a focused fruit profile. The wines massive structure coupled with Pickberry's signature blue fruit and intense menthol notes is just right on.

Planted mostly in the 1940's, the mix of vineyards comes mostly from Douby, a zone on the north side of Morgon between the famous Côte de Py hill and Fleurie, and the lieu-dit, Courcelette, a parcel completely made of soft, coarse beach-like sands. Much of these vineyards are on softly sloping aspects ranging from southeast to southwest. There are rocky sections also, but generally the vineyards are sandy, leading to wines led by elegance and subtlety, but endowed with great length and complexity from their very old vines. The climate here is a warm by contrast to those further uphill.

PLEASE BE AWARE, THIS IS A PRE-ARRIVAL WINE - YOU WILL NOT BE CHARGED SHIPPING FEES UNTIL THE WINE(S) ARRIVE

99 Points! If you want to know why so many old wine books sing the praises of this appellation, try this expansively rich and velvety Moulin-a-Vent. Masses of fine tannins that are already beautifully integrated on the medium- to full-bodied palate. They build and build to an almost overwhelming climax in the fabulously long and impeccably balanced finish. Limited production. Matured in used oak barrels from Burgundy for just under a year. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

PLEASE BE AWARE, THIS IS A PRE-ARRIVAL WINE - YOU WILL NOT BE CHARGED SHIPPING FEES UNTIL THE WINE(S) ARRIVE

96 Points! Welcome to the dark heart of Morgon. Enormous structure, but the tannins are very fine and there's easily enough concentration to balance them in a very sensual manner. Stacks of black cherry and forest berry fruit, also some dry forest-floor character. All the power expected from this appellation is in the compact and beautifully crafted finish. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

91 Points! A full-bodied, juicy and chewy merlot. Tasty layers of chocolate, cherries, hazelnuts and olives wrapped up in ripe, broad tannins. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

From the importer: The domaine’s top red wine is the cuvée Charles de Batz, which was the original name of d'Artignan. The wine is composed of 90% Tannat with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines that are between 50 and 100 years old. After being completely destemmed, the Cabernet and Tannat are fermented separately in cement tanks. During this time, a bit of micro-oxygenation or microboullage takes place. The wine then goes into oak (50% new) in an underground cellar where it also undergoes malolactic fermentation. After 12 months in wood, it is blended and bottled after a very light filtration.

Very ripe, rich Madiran that takes no prisoners. This wine succeeds in obtaining more fruit than tannin! The color is nearly opaque—wine doesn't get much darker than this. It displays notes of black fruit (blackcurrant and blackberry) along with just a hint of red fruit. There is a cedar-like creaminess to the oak which is extremely well-integrated. Tannins pick up on the finish but, let's face it, this is Madiran and that is to be expected. These tannins seem to dissolve when the wine is matched with richly flavored meats like leg of lamb, duck, goose or game.

100 Points! Wow. Fabulous aromas of currants, rosemary, mint and orange peel. Perfect nose. Full body with perfectly integrated tannins. It's long and incredible with tangerine, toasted-oak, berry, terracotta and chocolate flavors. It lasts for minutes on the palate. This needs at least five years to soften but so spellbinding now. - JamesSuckling.com

Damien Coquelet’s stepfather, Georges Descombes, is a legendary pioneer of the modernist, natural winemaking school of Beaujolais. Coquelet set up shop by himself, under his own name, in 2007, at the age of 20. He now owns two-and-a-half hectares of vines in Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages and leases another six-and-a-half in Beaujolais-Villages, Morgon, Chiroubles and Chénas. Coquelet makes his wines with whole clusters and native yeasts via carbonic maceration, fermented and raised entirely in concrete tanks and with just a bit of sulfur added at bottling. While the wines can sometimes reveal a wild streak, they are, some consider, in the “natural” camp of Beaujolais, but I almost always find them relatively civilized and joyous to drink, even on release. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

93 Points! Here’s a very well-structured wine for a Beaujolais-Villages. Subtle sour cherry and wild strawberry aromas fill the rather sleek, barely medium-bodied palate, which has a lovely mineral freshness and a hint of blood oranges at the long, crisp finish. From four hectares of vineyards with 45- to 70-year-old vines. Fermented and matured only in concrete tanks. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

92-94 Points! The 2022 Côte du Py blossoms on the nose more than Burgaud's other barrel samples with gorgeous floral scents, red berries, crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. This really grabs hold of the terroir with both hands and exudes tension and energy on the finish. Queue up for this. Drink: 2026-2040. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

97 Points! An inspiring Morgon Cote du Py. Smelling this is like looking down into a vast chasm filled with blackberries. Stunning mineral energy and focus on the medium-bodied palate. You can almost taste the wind that whips over this hilltop site. Then a wave of tiny, fresh blackberries washes over your palate at the wonderfully energetic finish. The production from six hectares goes into this wine. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

96 Points! The fantastic nose of forest berries with undertones of forest floor pulls you inexorably into this medium- to full-bodied Morgon beauty. Excellent concentration, with stacks of very fine tannins that give this serious persistence and makes it hard to pull yourself away. From vines planted in 1933. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

96 Points! Stunning nose of licorice and ripe (but not overripe) plum. Very elegant and silky, this has so much mineral intensity and such fine tannins. The freshness at the finish could wake the dead! Hard to imagine how a wine could be more focused than this. From 80 and 100 year old vines. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! The 2021 Moulin-à-Vent Tres Vieille Vigne Les Caves comes from vines over 80-years old. It has an almost surly, backward bouquet that despite encouragement is not coming out to play, with hints of pressed iris flower reluctantly emerging. The palate is worth investigating: lovely balance, fine acidity, assiduous use of oak and a vibrant finish. Cellar this for 3-4 years to allow the aromatics to develop and you should have a wonderful Moulin-a-Vent.  - Neal Martin, Vinous Media