Wines

From the importer: The domaine’s top red wine is the cuvée Charles de Batz, which was the original name of d'Artignan. The wine is composed of 90% Tannat with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines that are between 50 and 100 years old. After being completely destemmed, the Cabernet and Tannat are fermented separately in cement tanks. During this time, a bit of micro-oxygenation or microboullage takes place. The wine then goes into oak (50% new) in an underground cellar where it also undergoes malolactic fermentation. After 12 months in wood, it is blended and bottled after a very light filtration.

Very ripe, rich Madiran that takes no prisoners. This wine succeeds in obtaining more fruit than tannin! The color is nearly opaque—wine doesn't get much darker than this. It displays notes of black fruit (blackcurrant and blackberry) along with just a hint of red fruit. There is a cedar-like creaminess to the oak which is extremely well-integrated. Tannins pick up on the finish but, let's face it, this is Madiran and that is to be expected. These tannins seem to dissolve when the wine is matched with richly flavored meats like leg of lamb, duck, goose or game.

94 Points! The Stefania Barbot 2019 Taurasi Fren offers pretty concentration and richness with dark fruit that starts with blackberry preserves, cherry confit, rum cake and sweet spice. The full-framed Fren could use another few years of bottle age to soften those chalky Aglianico tannins. Despite the wine's robust profile, the fruit remains punchy and lively. This wine ages for three years before its release, including two years in oak. Fruit comes from old vines aged from 70 to 90 years old. Only 4,000 bottles were made, and you get a beautiful Taurasi at an affordable price. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

91 Points! A pure expression of Aglianico, the Stefania Barbot 2019 Irpinia Campi Taurasini Ion is thick and darkly concentrated with a powerful 15.5% alcohol content. That brawn and muscle proves distracting, especially on first impact. However, the overall quality of dark fruit, with pressed blackberry and dark cherry, gives the wine pretty vertical lift and inner energy. On the palate, the wine is more streamlined and elegant than you might initially expect. Ion pulls itself nicely together at the end. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

92 Points! Lots of focused crushed-berry and cherry character. Very fresh. Medium body. Fine and delicate tannins and a delicious finish. Sort of Beaujolais mouth-feel to this. Drink now. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! Here's a fun new wine from Elena Fucci named "sceg," after the local dialect word for pomegranate. The 2021 Aglianico del Vulture Sceg is made with fruit from old vines in the village of Barile, perched on the steep slopes of the extinct Vulture volcano. This wine sends an important message for Aglianico because it aspires to a more contemporary profile with bright fruit flavors and an accessible drinking style. We're still talking about the mighty Aglianico grape, so you can expect ample tannic structure and texture; however, this wine does indeed break down in terms of bouquet with tart berry, cranberry jelly from a can and Amarena cherry. And, yes, there is plenty of pomegranate berry too. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

92 Points! Camphor complicates grilled herb and red plum aromas as the 2021 Aglianico del Vulture SCEG opens in the glass. This is an especially rich and supple rendition of SCEG, with sour citrus enlivening masses of dark red fruits and perfumed inner florals that resonate throughout. Juicy acidity maintains an energetic feel as grippy tannins come forward through the close, as the 2021 finishes long and staining with a youthful tension that puckers the cheeks. - Eric Guido, Vinous Media

94 Points! Plenty of citrus, orange peel, honey and beeswax with some pumice and volcanic soil character. Medium body, with firm and integrated tannins that are energetic and integrated. Very pretty now but even better in three or four years. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! Crushed red plums, blood orange, and sweet spice create an alluring bouquet as the 2021 Aglianico del Vulture Grifalco lifts from the glass. This is soft tectured with a saline tinged core of wild berry fruits. Violet inner florals amass toward the close. The 2021 Finnishes with medium length and perfumed, grippy tannins as sour citrus nuances add freshness. I truly admire the energy and the classic lines inherent in this beautiful Vulture Aglianico. - Eric Guido, Vinous Media

96 Points! This shows notes of darker berries with red licorice and fresh ripe peaches. Intense with hints of moist clay soil and bark undertones. Full and steady on the palate with a firm backbone of chalky tannins that go on for minutes. Lot of tension and energy. Stays long on the palate, turning to a more smooth and powdery mouthfeel. Needs some time. Try after 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

95 Points! This is more vibrant with red berries, blood oranges, light spices and hints of terra-cotta. Medium-bodied, juicy and fruit-forward with tangy acidity and dusty tannins. Hints of bitter orange at the end. Long and chalky yet very attractive and enjoyable now. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

95 Points! This shows a very attractive, savory character with red cherries and raspberries, accompanied with dried summer herbs, candied orange and red spices. Dry earth, too. Medium- to full-bodied. Very even and seamless tannin structure. Refined and polished with a dusty earthiness that leads to a dry, delicate finish. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

96 Points! This has a fresh and fragrant nose with beautiful cherries and raspberries as well as rose petals, licorice and crushed stones. It’s firm and linear on the palate with a medium body and vivid acidity. It’s hard to draw a line between the tannins and the earthy, mineral aspect as both build a chalky mouthfeel and lead to a long textural finish. I like the finesse here despite being still quite tight and firm. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

96 Points! Pure cherry fruit here, reminiscent of kirsch, with orange peel and an ashy, mineral backbone to it, almost like cracked flint or gunpowder. Similar aromas and flavors on both the nose and on the palate. Medium- to full-bodied, really tense and firm with chalky tannins and a lingering crushed granite and rock sensation on the palate. Seashells, too. Long. Try after 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

“Our Arneis wants to show the freshness and crispiness of this variety,” Giovanna says. “It has unique herbaceous aromatics (sage, thyme, rosemary) with white flowers (orange blossoms) and is pure, fresh, and vertical with good acidity and a long finish.”

Giovanna explained that Arneis went through some troubled times a few decades ago and got a bad rap. When bubbles in white wine became interesting, many growers in the Langhe planted Arneis in unfavorable locations: bottom of hills, north faces—essentially where other grapes wouldn’t ripen either. Whatever made it past the frost season had to contend with mildew feasting on the vine’s chlorophyll and then tainting the tight, fat-berried Arneis clusters. The grapes were picked when green or yellow, perfect for zippy, minerally white wine, no? Not with Arneis. It reaches its highest level when golden, otherwise it remains neutral, boring and austere.

These days, respect has returned to this grape and it’s time for it to reach its potential. Changes in approach, like keeping the vines above 250m to stave off frost, and better expositions with fewer facing directly north but rather more toward southerly exposures, or due east or west, or slightly tilted toward the north, like Brandini’s parcel in Canale facing northeast that’s fully exposed to the sun at an altitude of 350m. Here, the wind contact with the grapes, the early morning sun and good canopy management keeps mildew at bay while the Bagnascos wait patiently for the grapes to go golden—a difficult discipline for a family driven by high acid wines.