Wines

Absolutely delightful stuff, ultimate pizza wine!

From the importer: Gojer's estate, Glögglhof, is right in the middle of the St. Magdalena hill, a perfect amphitheater just North-East of the city of Bolzano. Franz, the 5th generation to make wine at Glögglhof, is one of the 'gang of four,' a group of fine small producers from the Alto Adige who share a philosophy of winemaking: very expressive, very typical, very well-made wines.

Karneid, the vineyard site, is a high-altitude plot on the other side of the valley from the winery. These Schiava vines were already very old (plnated 1948!) when the Gojer’s purchased the site, hence the name ‘Alte Reben’, which means ‘Old Vines’. Mouthwatering and savory, with notes of pomegranate and herbs. An excellent complement to most pork dishes and great with salum

From the importer: The domaine’s top red wine is the cuvée Charles de Batz, which was the original name of d'Artignan. The wine is composed of 90% Tannat with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines that are between 50 and 100 years old. After being completely destemmed, the Cabernet and Tannat are fermented separately in cement tanks. During this time, a bit of micro-oxygenation or microboullage takes place. The wine then goes into oak (50% new) in an underground cellar where it also undergoes malolactic fermentation. After 12 months in wood, it is blended and bottled after a very light filtration.

Very ripe, rich Madiran that takes no prisoners. This wine succeeds in obtaining more fruit than tannin! The color is nearly opaque—wine doesn't get much darker than this. It displays notes of black fruit (blackcurrant and blackberry) along with just a hint of red fruit. There is a cedar-like creaminess to the oak which is extremely well-integrated. Tannins pick up on the finish but, let's face it, this is Madiran and that is to be expected. These tannins seem to dissolve when the wine is matched with richly flavored meats like leg of lamb, duck, goose or game.

94 Points! The Stefania Barbot 2019 Taurasi Fren offers pretty concentration and richness with dark fruit that starts with blackberry preserves, cherry confit, rum cake and sweet spice. The full-framed Fren could use another few years of bottle age to soften those chalky Aglianico tannins. Despite the wine's robust profile, the fruit remains punchy and lively. This wine ages for three years before its release, including two years in oak. Fruit comes from old vines aged from 70 to 90 years old. Only 4,000 bottles were made, and you get a beautiful Taurasi at an affordable price. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

91 Points! A pure expression of Aglianico, the Stefania Barbot 2019 Irpinia Campi Taurasini Ion is thick and darkly concentrated with a powerful 15.5% alcohol content. That brawn and muscle proves distracting, especially on first impact. However, the overall quality of dark fruit, with pressed blackberry and dark cherry, gives the wine pretty vertical lift and inner energy. On the palate, the wine is more streamlined and elegant than you might initially expect. Ion pulls itself nicely together at the end. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

92 Points! Lots of focused crushed-berry and cherry character. Very fresh. Medium body. Fine and delicate tannins and a delicious finish. Sort of Beaujolais mouth-feel to this. Drink now. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! Here's a fun new wine from Elena Fucci named "sceg," after the local dialect word for pomegranate. The 2021 Aglianico del Vulture Sceg is made with fruit from old vines in the village of Barile, perched on the steep slopes of the extinct Vulture volcano. This wine sends an important message for Aglianico because it aspires to a more contemporary profile with bright fruit flavors and an accessible drinking style. We're still talking about the mighty Aglianico grape, so you can expect ample tannic structure and texture; however, this wine does indeed break down in terms of bouquet with tart berry, cranberry jelly from a can and Amarena cherry. And, yes, there is plenty of pomegranate berry too. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

92 Points! Camphor complicates grilled herb and red plum aromas as the 2021 Aglianico del Vulture SCEG opens in the glass. This is an especially rich and supple rendition of SCEG, with sour citrus enlivening masses of dark red fruits and perfumed inner florals that resonate throughout. Juicy acidity maintains an energetic feel as grippy tannins come forward through the close, as the 2021 finishes long and staining with a youthful tension that puckers the cheeks. - Eric Guido, Vinous Media

This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antoni Galloni, Vinous Media

93 Points! Crushed red plums, blood orange, and sweet spice create an alluring bouquet as the 2021 Aglianico del Vulture Grifalco lifts from the glass. This is soft tectured with a saline tinged core of wild berry fruits. Violet inner florals amass toward the close. The 2021 Finnishes with medium length and perfumed, grippy tannins as sour citrus nuances add freshness. I truly admire the energy and the classic lines inherent in this beautiful Vulture Aglianico. - Eric Guido, Vinous Media

Winery notes: “A rare and typical champagne that truly reflects the terroir… A pure and intense moment with Champagne’s oldest grape variety. Made with 100% Meunier grape varietal, this surprising cuvée unveils subtle and fruity perfumes as well as a beautiful aromatic complexity.”

91 Points! Bright yellow. Intense, mineral-laced aromas of redcurrent, blood orange, ginger and smoke, with a hint of white pepper in the background. Dry and nervy, displaying very good clarity to its red berry and citrus fruit flavors. I'd have thought of dosage here was quite a bit lower. Spreads out slowly on the finish, with the mineral and red berry notes echoing. - Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media

97 Points! What an amazing nose of grilled dried seaweed, oyster shell, dried strawberry and iron. Full to medium body with linear tannins that give it drive and length. Iron shavings. Tight at the end. Superb. Drink after 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

95 Points! A tightly focused, long and pure expression of Pinot, with raspberry coulis and blood orange zest notes streaming along, laced liberally with sous-bois, red tea and savory accents. Reveals lots of underlying energy, with everything in lockstep through the mineral-edged finish. Best from 2024 through 2031. - Wine Spectator

From the importer: This wine takes its name of the vineyard where the grapes are grown. With wonderful aromatics and soft tannins, this Schiava is a great summer red. Served slightly chilled.

Varietal Composition: 95% Schiava (Vernatsch), 5% Lagrein

Elaboration: Fermentation occurs with the skin contact in stainless-steel tanks and is followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is then separated from the skins and transferred into concrete tanks, where it refines for four months.

Tasting Notes: Brilliant translucent ruby red in color with a fruity bouquet reminiscent of black cherry and violets expanding to a medium-bodied palate of red summer fruits; a succulent wine with mild acidity, medium length, and a soft and smooth finish.

94 Points! Extremely perfumed with violet and blueberry aromas that follow through to a full body with creamy, refined tannins. Wonderful depth, due to the compact fruit and vertical line of tannins. Black pepper to the dark fruit. Better in two or three years. Try after 2022. - JamesSuckling.com

92 Points! Molettieri’s 2007 Taurasi Vigna 5 Querce is a big, big wine. Mocha, espresso, game, tar, licorice and dark raspberries meld together in an unusually ripe, flashy Taurasi. The 2007 boasts tons of richness and sheer power, but it needs at least another year to settle down and incorporate its oak. Unlike most Molettieri Taurasis, the 2007 should drink well with minium cellaring. - Antonio Galloni, robertparker.com

91 Points! A full-bodied red with aromas of black cherries, blackcurrants, violets and black licorice. Tannic and chewy with a firm core of dark fruit. Try from 2023. - JamesSuckling.com

This racy and fruity, pure Pinot Meunier Champagne showcases this noble grape in all its glory! A generous addition of reserve wine gives the wine wonderful depth and character. Aged for three years, with just 3 grams/L dosage.