Wines

DeRose has a handful of ”old-vine” varieties on its Cienega Valley estate, but none is more exotic that a 10-acre planting of Negrette. These vines are even rare in their native land of France where records show only 100 acres cultivated in the Toulouse region on the Garonne River. Adding to the mystique, the variety was called “Pinot St. George” until the BATF changed its official name effective with the ’97 vintage.

Planted on their own roots in the 1880s, the old vines are dry farmed in gray clay-loam soils that contain large chunks of dolomite. This shimmering white mineral is mostly calcium, an essential element of good soil. Relatively young
in geologic time, these loose soils allow vines to extend deep and wide in search of water and nutrients. Yields average one ton per acre.

The pinnacle of Greco; a riveting white that brings together savory mint and heady citrus in a plush and endlessly pleasing package. Here above the clouds, at 2,100 feet in altitude, winemaker Raffaele Troisi tends older vines for a Campanian white of serious potential.

92 Points! The 2021 Greco di Tufo Le Arcaie reveals a medium light golden color and a mildly creamy or slightly concentrated mouthfeel. Some 20% of the wine is briefly aged in oak. That extra heft and richness gives support to apricot, honey and preserved lemon. If you dig a little deeper, you might pick up subtle hints of saffron and salted almond. This pretty white offers a long citrusy finish. Fruit comes from a high-elevation vineyard at a cool 700 meters above sea level. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com