Saumur

From the importer: Originating from vines planted on clay and chalk (tuffeau) soil, this wine offers the distinctive character of Cabernet Franc: deep and bright ruby color, fine aromas of red fruits (red current, cherry) and floral subtleties (violet, iris), fine and velvety tannin, with a fresh and balanced finish. Best served below room temperature (14 to 16º C), Clos des Cordeliers Cuvée Tradition is at its prime when young and is the perfect companion for cold meats, roasted meats, grilled fish and cheese.

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The nose is an inviting mixture of classic Chenin with notes of orange, peach, and quince with streaks of earth and chalky minerality.  All of this comes through on the palate in a dry but fruit-focused style, with a rounded, supple palate feel and without the sometimes searing acidity that can make this varietal difficult for some folks to appreciate.  Because of Lambert’s approach to Chenin emphasizing the varietal purity and unique terroir of Saumur, and this wine’s relatively gentler demeanor make it a wine to win friends for the region. 

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50+ year-old vines!

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Excitign stuff! From the importer: Domaine de Closiers is the vision of Anatole de la Brosse, who, prior to heading one of the world’s largest management consulting firms, had trained as an enologist. Eventually, Anatole decided to leave consulting and return to his first passion. He was able to acquire Domaine des Closiers, an historic property in Parnay, in the heart of Saumur-Champigny, in 2018. The estate’s name derives from the vineyard workers who once inhabited the ancient caves carved into its hillsides.

Because much of Saumur-Champigny is relatively flat, the wealth of slopes in Parnay, and Closiers in particular, sets it apart. This is especially true of the Les Coudraies climat, but extends to many of the estate’s holdings. The estate’s vines also average over 35 years of age, giving further credence to Anatole’s belief in Closiers’ potential.

To fully realize this potential, he enlisted two of the Loire Valley’s most celebrated names. The first, Michel Chevré, of Clos de l’Ecotard, earlier worked side-by-side with Thierry Germain as they developed a pioneering biodynamic regime. Michel has helped develop a similar program tailored to Closiers’ diverse terroirs.

The second name is even better known: Nady Foucault, who, with his late brother Charly, made Clos Rougeard one of the towering icons of French wine. Nady’s wealth of experience helped guide Closiers’ winemaking team from the beginning, and the wisdom of that decision became readily apparent with the inaugural 2019 vintage.

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Belonging to the Duveau Family since 1835 (six generations) and now run by Patrice and his son Remy, the Famille Duveau vineyard spreads over 50 hectares (123.5 acres) in Saint-Cyr en Bourg and Bréz to the South of the Loire river. Perfect, so reputed and ideal terroirs for the Cabernet-Franc in St. Cyr en Bourg, and the Chenin in Breze. The terroir of limestone-clay soil and sub soils called “Tuffeau” make this area extremely propitious for the cultivation and maturation of the Cabernet Franc (good drainage of water and quickly warming up). Within the vineyard conducted under Sustainable Agriculture principles, 100% green covering and also leaves’ removing is performed when necessary. After harvesting, a very precise hand selection of the grapes is done on a sorting table, just before the destemming, and then the wine undergoes thermoregulated maceration in stainless tanks for 14 to 18 days. The wine is then aged 10 months in tanks before 100% of the Saumur Champigny production is bottled at the estate, unfined and unfiltered.

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From a south facing vineyard looking over the Loire River. The soil here sits atop carbonate formations of Turonian limestone. It is mostly shallow, with soft limestone, resulting in a moderate, but fairly regular water supply, ideal for growing high quality Cabernet Franc. The average age of the vines are 55 years. Nature was kind to the reds in the Loire in this vintage and this one packs plenty of dark red and black fruits along with element of mineral and, again, an unexpected tender fleshiness for the genre. A steal at $14.98.

 

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From the importer: The vines that plunge the deepest into the tuffeau below are bottled separately, with the “Vieilles Vignes” cuvée comprising parcels ranging from 50 to 80 years of age. Maceration is extended here up to 30 days (the 2018 underwent 25 days), and aging occurs in a combination of stainless steel and used barrels of varying shapes and sizes (demi-muid, cuve tronconique, various foudres). Despite the expected increase in concentration and structure with this wine compared to “Les Sables,” the same sense of freshness permeates this wine—making it “très digeste” indeed. Tannins are again graceful, but the underlying sense of minerality is more assertive here, contributing a salty-savory edge absent in the more fruit-driven “Les Sables.” Learn More

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