Wines

From the winery: The 2023 Sonoma Valley Sauvignon Blanc comes from three stony-soiled sites found throughout the Valley of the Moon. The majority comes from the north-facing slopes of Uboldi Vineyard in Kenwood, with the balance from Bedrock Vineyard on the Agua Caliente bench and Judge Vineyard in Bennett Valley. 70% of the wine was barrel fermented in predominately neutral French and Austrian oak barrels (in total about 8% new oak), and 30% was fermented in tank. The resulting wine nicely combines the musqué clone-driven perfume from the tank-fermented lot with the textural richness from the barrel-fermented portion. Fittingly for the cool vintage, this is elegant, flinty and mineral with aromatics of melon, green papaya, and citrus overlaying fresh and sappy fruit and bright acid. A lovely wine that we all plan to drink a lot of over the coming summer months.

From Mary: Touraine: the heart of the Loire Valley, home of the great châteaux, and the garden of France. This region’s range of climates and diversity of soils are a treasure trove for the winelover. On the left bank of the Loire’s tributary river Cher, not far from the stunning Château de Chenonceau, lie the vineyards of our vigneron Luc Poullain. Vines up to 70 years old grow on complex soils of sandy siliceous clay and limestone, sustainably farmed with lush grasses growing between the rows.  Our Touraine is a sublimely grassy, citrussy expression of its terroir, nuanced and invigorating.

93 Points! This leaps out of the glass, with expressive, intense fruit flavors of silky smooth lemon meringue, mango, tangerine and fresh-cut apple. Candied ginger and green tea notes join a detail of salted lime before lingering on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now. - Wine Spectator

93 Points! Pure and focused, offering violet, cherry, raspberry and mineral aromas and flavors. Shaped by vibrant acidity, this red persists with a lingering, resonant aftertaste. - Wine Spectator

A Sancerre of this quality comes from old Sauvignon vines (over 60 years old!) planted on the famous flinted hills of St-Satur, covering the eastern side of the Sancerre appellation.

94 Points! Stunning, this exuberant, generous version shows notes of passion fruit, Key lime, dried pineapple and orange blossoms, along with grated ginger. Reveals a hint of sea salt minerality on the long, expressive finish, where toasted herb accents linger. Drink now. - Wine Spectator

Crisp, crunchy grapefruit and lime citrus flavors combine with a subtle herbaceous element that adds complexity. White-fleshed and citrus fruit notes lead to a long, mineral and saline finish. A harmonious, fresh cuvée to be savored.

100% Sauvignon Blanc, alcohol: 12.5%; soils: calcareous clay (70% “Terres Blanches (white earth), 30% “Caillottes” (little stones)) with limestone subsoil; vine age: 8 – 43 years; organically oriented, environmentally responsible viticulture; no chemical herbicides or anti-rot products; long, gentle pressing and cold stabilization; fermented 3 weeks in stainless steel, temperature-controlled tanks; aged on fine lees; fined with bentonite and cellulose filtered before bottling in Spring.

95 Points! A stunning white, this leaps out of the glass with aromatic mango, orange blossom and salted ripe melon flavors. Gains complexity from grilled peach, lemon oil, savory litsea oil and toasted herb elements, with a fleshy, creamy texture and fresh acidity. - Wine Spectator

This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media