Wines

From the importer: Proprietor Luigi DeMeo talks about the Campi Flegrei terroir more than the varieties, but they are also doing genetic testing on the Falanghina. Falanghina Beneventana, from around Benevento, to the north-east of Naples is a completely different variety than Falanghina Flegrea from the Campi Flegrei (near Naples). At La Sibilla, they are growing Falanghina Flegrea, and this is a very distinctive example of how delicious Campanian white wines can be.

It delivers a crisp minerally character while also showing appealing aromas and flavors of citrus, flowers, and tarragon. This is an excellent seafood wine. I also drink it as a dry aperitif, with olives and salami, while deciding what to make for dinner. 

“Our Arneis wants to show the freshness and crispiness of this variety,” Giovanna says. “It has unique herbaceous aromatics (sage, thyme, rosemary) with white flowers (orange blossoms) and is pure, fresh, and vertical with good acidity and a long finish.”

Giovanna explained that Arneis went through some troubled times a few decades ago and got a bad rap. When bubbles in white wine became interesting, many growers in the Langhe planted Arneis in unfavorable locations: bottom of hills, north faces—essentially where other grapes wouldn’t ripen either. Whatever made it past the frost season had to contend with mildew feasting on the vine’s chlorophyll and then tainting the tight, fat-berried Arneis clusters. The grapes were picked when green or yellow, perfect for zippy, minerally white wine, no? Not with Arneis. It reaches its highest level when golden, otherwise it remains neutral, boring and austere.

These days, respect has returned to this grape and it’s time for it to reach its potential. Changes in approach, like keeping the vines above 250m to stave off frost, and better expositions with fewer facing directly north but rather more toward southerly exposures, or due east or west, or slightly tilted toward the north, like Brandini’s parcel in Canale facing northeast that’s fully exposed to the sun at an altitude of 350m. Here, the wind contact with the grapes, the early morning sun and good canopy management keeps mildew at bay while the Bagnascos wait patiently for the grapes to go golden—a difficult discipline for a family driven by high acid wines.

92 Points! Delicious falanghina here, with a burst of pear, floral and mineral aromas and flavors that remain clean and vivid on the medium palate. Fresh, balanced finish with some length. Drink now. - JamesSuckling.com