Wines

96 Points! Readers should note that with the 1997 Brunello di Montalcino, the label has changed to emphasize the proprietor's name, Livio Sassetti, rather than the estate name, Pertimali. Always a top-notch Brunello, the 1997 is staggering in its aromatic fireworks and concentrated, long, intense flavors. Sumptuous aromas of dried Provencal herbs, roasted meats, soy, spice box, asphalt, truffles, and black fruits linger in the air. Flavors of new saddle leather are added to jammy black fruit characteristics. Opulently-textured, full-bodied, and gorgeously pure, this wine creates an olfactory overload. Its low acidity, high glycerin, and huge fruit reserves suggest drinking it now and over the next 12-18 years. Mamma mia! - Robert Parker, robertparker.com, 2002