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As we mentioned in our earlier offering of the Maison Berthaude Chateauneuf ‘Tradition’ 2017 (one of the best Chateauneuf values we have introduced this year) this is not your typical story. Sure you’ve got old vines and vintners that have been on the land for generations. More importantly, you’ve got delicious efforts from exceptional vintages at prices well below market, and thus a happy ending to the tale. Only the names have been changed to protect the innocent (and the importers of the domaine’s ‘real’ label).
You might recall our piece on the Etienne Gonnet wines a while back. The Gonnet wines were actually an ‘incognito’ label from Font du Michelle to further penetrate the market without disturbing the primary label’s distribution arrangements with a different importer. This is essentially the same deal as that, with Maison La Berthaude being the ‘alias’ of a property we have loved and sold for years, Domaine Roger Perrin. The wine in the bottle is the same as under the Perrin label (to the point where the reviews are interchangeable between the two), but the no frills distribution company that brings the Berthaude in allows us to sell it an almost unbelievable prices for a legit, quality Chateauneuf. As they say, what a country!
For a bit of history, the estate was founded under the name Roger Perrin when Roger took control of the property from his father-in-law in 1969. His son Luc, who passed in 2010, followed and then Luc’s sister Veronique Perrin-Rolin controlled the estate. The reins just passed to young, diligent Xavier Rolin who represents the 5th generation of vignerons on this property Domaine Roger Perrin (and by association Maison La Berthaude) covers a total of 40.5 hectares, 15.5 of which lie within the confines of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation. The vines average 60-years-of-age with some plots over a century old. The estate is located in a sub-appellation called Berthaude, near the border with Orange, which is where the name came from.
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The focus of today’s offer is two upper cuvees from the great 2016 vintage. The Maison Berthaude Chateauneuf du Pape Vieille Vignes 2016 is 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% Cinsault; 1/3 each aged in cuve, foudre and barrel (6% new oak). Super perfumed, garrigue-driven nose, with anise, and tapenade all adding nuance to the black cherry fruit core. On the palate the wine shows lots of dark fruit, thickness and power; intense spiciness and 'soily' minerality.
There’s critical acclaim in the form of a 92 from Wine Advocate and 91 from Jeb Dunnuck. Advocate notes are pretty straightforward, “Hints of cedar and baking spices add modern touches to the full-bodied 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. It's a big, rich wine, filled with cherries and red berries, turning a bit tannic on the long, cinnamon-dusted finish.” The meat of Dunnuck’s piece says, “ ... Black cherries, damp herbs, sappy garrigue and floral notes all give way to a medium to full-bodied, elegant, nicely balanced wine that will keep for a decade.”
This is a reserve cuvee level bottling sell for well less than most regular cuvees, thus an exceptional value.
We had a hard time deciding which of the Maison Berthaude wines we were going to hit the hardest because every one of them performed beautifully, particularly given their relative values. But truth be told, while we were smitten with the whole lineup, and usually aren’t the types to always like the most expensive the best, the Maison Berthaude 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Vignes Centenaires 2016 pretty much stole the show that day. This premium level offering, made from 70% Grenache and 30% co-fermented Mourvèdre and Syrah from century-old plots (planted in 1903 & 1906) and aged 100% in barrels, is fantastic.
Big score and enthusiastic words abound here. From Wine Advocate, “Evidently seasoned with new wood in its élevage, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Vignes Centenaires features aromas of toasted coconut and vanilla over black cherries. It's full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a touch of warmth on the finish...93 points.”
Jeb Dunnuck upped the ante, “On another level, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Vignes Centenaires is unquestionably the most sexy, ripe and exuberant in the lineup, offering kirsch liqueur, graphite, garrigue, and ample spice. It's rich, full-bodied, beautifully textured, and sexy....Don’t miss it!...94 points”
It’s also the last load of the remarkable price performer, the Maison Berthaude’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape ‘Tradition’ 2017. Excellent, bright, easy drinking Chateauneuf, with a 90-92 barrel score from Jeb Dunnuck, for under $20? It’s early on, but this may prove to be one of the best buys of the entire vintage. From top to bottom these wines are well under-priced in the big scheme of things thanks to a more direct import scenario. It works for everyone. Good hunting.
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Maison La Berthaude Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes 2016
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92 Points! Hints of cedar and baking spices add modern touches to the full-bodied 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. It's a big, rich wine, filled with cherries and red berries, turning a bit tannic on the long, cinnamon-dusted finish. - Joe Czerwinski, robertparker.com
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Maison La Berthaude Chateauneuf du Pape Vignes Centenaires Réserve 2016
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94 Points! On another level, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Vignes Centenaires is unquestionably the most sexy, ripe and exuberant in the lineup, offering kirsch liqueur, graphite, garrigue, and ample spice. It's rich, full-bodied, beautifully textured, and sexy. This beauty is based on 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, raised in 30% new French oak. Don’t miss it! - Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com
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Maison La Berthaude Cuvee Tradition Chateauneuf du Pape 2017
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90-92 Points! A blend of 80/20 Grenache and Syrah, the 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Galets de La Berthaude reveals a healthy ruby/purple color as well as outstanding notes of black raspberries, black cherries, spice, and garrigue. It has a more red-fruited character, medium to full body, moderate acidity, and ample texture, and should be rock-solid. - Jeb Dunnuck
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COMPANY
© 2019 WINE EXCHANGE
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CONTACT INFO
1544 East Warner Avenue, Santa Ana, CA 92705, USA
PHONE: 1-800-769-4639
FAX: 714-979-1520
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