Some of you might recall that last year on these pages, we extolled the virtues of the Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Moussiere 2016, pretty much conceding it was among our top performers in the glass as far as pink wine was concerned. Thus far the importer has not presented us with the 2017 model of that wine, but another striking Loire pink has really gotten our attention. It’s not that we do not feel the ‘streak’ of the of the harvest of having a Pinot Noir from the Loire as a major feature as having any mojo with respect to the overall game. There will be plenty of enthusiasm for this bright, expressive, fruit-driven rose by virtue of its unabashed style.
Like the Moussiere last year, expect it to be everything you might be looking for in a pink wine. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, the nose gives bright red melon notes and there is plenty of expressive fruit on the palate, surprising weight given the varietal and more authoritative flavors to set it apart from the rank & file pink (which there certainly are a lot of out there), and loads of style. From 10-60 year old vines grown in Kimmeridgeon limestone soils in a single 2.5 hectare site called La Noue, harvested by hand and then assembled from part saignee and part direct press juice, this shows the purity and clarity that redefines the genre.
Delicacy and insistence, there is plenty of strawberry, raspberry, and other red fruits on display here, with deceptive vigor, unexpected depth, and plenty of palate authority. This is one of those pinks that performs at a higher level and, while it can be lustily consumed as a casual beverage, the wine has the kind of panache that will get your attention on a more intimate level. One of the best we have tasted this year.