Burgundy

95 Points! From a single premier cru parcel planted by Geantet’s grandfather in 1949 in the nose-bleed bleachers of the commune (above Lavaux St.-Jacques and Les Verroilles), the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Poissenot displays a uniquely alkaline, and maritime note in the nose, along with scents of ripe black cherry and roasted game. This presents terrific depth and richness on the palate, offering a veritable butcher shop of carnal delights, including raw beef, salted, smoked pork and long-hung game. Not that fruit is slighted: there is strong, sweetly ripe black cherry throughout, and a malbec-like amalgam of black raspberry, white pepper and cardamom emerges as the wine takes on air. Creamy, rich, sappy, and sleek, this finishes with gum-clinging strength and refinement, invigoratingly saline and brightly black-fruited. A delight already, this distinctively superb Gevrey will no doubt benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring. - David Schildknecht, robertparker.com

96 Points! The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is nothing short of superb in bottle and ranks among the year's most authoritative wines. A pure, marine-inflected opening—iodine, lemon peel and oyster liquor mingled with beeswax and dried apricot—precedes a concentrated yet tensile palate of taut muscularity. Bright acidity and abundant chalky extract lend the wine a bracing, kinetic edge, culminating in an intensely saline, persistent finish. Dauvissat here once again affirms its status as one of the site's greatest interpreters. - Kristaps Karklins, robertparker.com

92-95 Points! Fresh pale lemon. Loads of energy here on the nose, but all perfectly balanced. Maximum minerals in this wine which Elsa thinks will be suppressed by longer oak ageing. More flesh than usual in the middle, with a fine persistence. - Jasper Morris

98 Points! The 2020 les Clos from Monsieur Dauvissat is every bit as brilliant as the les Preuses. The nose soars from the glass in a blend of apple, pear, lime zest, a stunning base of flinty, chalky, wet stone minerality and oyster shell, vanillin oak and a topnote of fruit blossoms. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off a gorgeous core of fruit, but the real beauty here is in the stunningly complex base of minerality, coupled with vibrant acids, impeccable focus and grip and a very, very long, dancing and seamlessly balanced finish. - John Gilman, View From The Cellar

96 Points! The beautiful, complex Corton-Charlemagne from Dugat-Py offers ripe pear, quince and passion fruit aromas, coloured with hints of soft white flowers, baking spice and butter. The texture is marvellously balanced; dense, rich and creamy, but not fat. The grapes are from 0.4ha of 55-year-old vines acquired from the estate of Gabriel Muscovac in Pernand (first vintage 2011). Dugat-Py gives the wine a traditional, long maturation in cask without stirring the lees. The vines are well-located for a warm vintage since they climb from mid-slope in Pernand to the top of the hill and have given a superb result in 2023. - Decanter Magazine

95+ Points! 2021 delivered a creditable yield, thanks to late pruning and frost protection, and the 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is one of the best I've tasted from Dugat-Py. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, citrus zest, hazelnut and struck match, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with tangy acids, a seamless profile and a long, electric finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

95 Points! The 1990 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is one of the highlights of the era. It has a disarmingly gorgeous nose with brambly red fruit, a touch of peppermint and sage, all exquisitely defined and gaining cohesion with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, glistening with vivacity and energy. Few 1990 Côte de Nuits have this sense of tension and the delineation on the finish is brilliant. Superb. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media, Jan 2020  

96+ Points! The 2022 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is taut and mineral, unwinding in the glass with a typically brooding bouquet of dark berries and plums mingled with hints of rose petals, spices, burning embers and beetroot. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, chalky finish, it will demand some patience. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

95 Points! The Mazis from Dugat-Py is profound, if not as expressively open as other wines in the cellar, yet there is abundant substance here. The aromas are spicy and complex, with an impressive depth of flavour to the black plum fruit and a round, supple structure. The grapes are from 75-year-old vines in Mazis-Bas; with the next vintage, Loïc will add a cuvée of Mazis-Haut from a sharecropping agreement. The fruit is fermented as 90% whole clusters; ageing is in 50% new casks. - Decanter Magazine

96 Points! The 2021 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is less brooding than is often the case, no doubt thanks to the vintage. Wafting from the glass with notes of sweet red berries, wild plums, rose petals, cinnamon and potpourri, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with a beautifully seamless, suave profile that means it's far from forbidding, even right out of the gates. Patience, however, will of course be rewarded. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

96 Points! This superb wine boasts a dense and lovely ripe plum and blackberry fruit aroma with plenty of depth and substance. The tannins are supple and not at all astringent. The grapes come from several small organically farmed parcels near the top of the appellation close to Chambertin, blended with a bit of Mazoyères. They are vinified 75% as whole clusters, with a very gentle extraction before ageing in cask (one-third new). For maximum pleasure, age this for at least five years from release to allow it to open up. - Decanter Magazine

95+ Points! The 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru reveals the same seriousness it displayed in barrel. Unwinding in the glass with notes of cherries, dark berries, orange zest and petals, it's full-bodied, layered and enveloping, built around a chassis of sweet, powdery tannins and animated by lively acids. While this is generally the domaine's most immediate grand cru, the 2022 will nevertheless demand a bit of patience. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

95 Points! The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has also turned out brilliantly in bottle, and readers will have a hard time choosing between this and the Lavaux Saint-Jacques. Bursting from the glass with aromas of peonies, wild berries, cherries, orange zest and spices, it's full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, enveloping core, concluding with a long, spicy finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

95 Points! Deep, bright red. Knockout vibrant nose combines purple and red berries, crushed stone, violet and animal fur. Lush, thick and deep but with terrific chalky energy animating the middle palate. Conveys striking depth to its red fruit and floral flavors, with the 45% new oak practically invisible today. Finishes with huge but round, noble tannins and outstanding lingering sweetness. In a more opulent style than the potentially great 2013, and probably for drinking before that wine. - Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media

96 Points! Here is a compact and deeply structured Chassagne-Montrachet that is only just beginning to open up and reveal its treasures. Lots of lees creaminess, but as much pear and citrus fruit, and all of this is underlined by a profound minerality that is really fascinating. Drinkable now, but best from 2026. - JamesSuckling.com

93-95 Points! The 2022 Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru bides its time in the glass, opening discretely with blackberry, redcurrants, briar and forest floor. Quintessentially Pommard, graceful and focused. The oak here is neatly assimilated. The medium-bodied palate has finely sculpted tannins, poised and very refreshing. There's good substance on the finish with insistent grip. This will need 5-6 years in bottle, but this represents a very classy, refined take on the vintage, a very sophisticated Pommard.

Winemaker David Rebourgeon lives virtually next door to Thibaud Clerget, and they have almost opposite personalities; Rebourgeon is more quietly spoken and perhaps introverted. Yet what they both have in common is excellent wines. That’s definitely the case in 2022, where I think Rebourgeon oversaw a couple of marvelous cuvées, amongst the best reds in the Côte de Beaune. “Everything was harvested by hand with a good ambiance,” he tells me after failing to remember exactly when he started picking. “I do both pigeage and remontage but did a little less pigeage this year. The alcohol levels are between 13% and 13.5%. The yields were not too high: We had half a crop in 2021 and one and half of a crop in 2022. The Premier Crus are all matured in 20% to 25% new oak. I am very happy with the 2022s. It was a generous vintage with fine balance and depth.” Readers should check out his tremendous Volnay Santenots and Les Caillerets – amongst the best you will find, plus a seriously good Pommard Grands Epenots. These classically styled wines don’t sing and shout, but their virtues stealthily creep up on you! - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

94-96 Points! Tremblay's 2021 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru is a hauntingly floral, ethereal wine, wafting from the glass with scents of sweet plums and berries mingled with exotic spices, orange zest and vine smoke. Full-bodied, broad and enveloping, it's deep and seamless, with a cool core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, floral finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

98 Points! Absolutely bursting with blue and red fruits, the concentration is deceptive here, as it starts out juicy and full of air, but after a few minutes in the glass you start to feel the weight and the texture, and this turns into an extremely serious wine with real tannic hold. Gorgeous savoury finish, as you get so often in the best Burgundies, where weightlessness is such a brilliant veil to the power behind. 55% whole cluster. - Decanter Magazine

98 Points! The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was wonderful from barrel but now it seems to have gone up another level. It has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful mineralité infusing the brambly red fruit. Wonderful focus and quite profound complexity. You could nose this forever. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins married with a killer line of natural acidity. Everything is perfectly proportioned in this wine, very persistent with layers of dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and tea leaf on the finish. Immense. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

94-96 Points! Broader and more flamboyant than the Chapelle-Chambertin, the 2020 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru bursts with aromas of plums, wild berries, exotic spices, orange rind, peonies and smoked meats. Full-bodied, ample and perfumed, it's layered and concentrated, with a fleshy, multidimensional core of fruit, lively acids and a long, expansive finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

96 Points! Plenty of red fruit character here, plus notes of wet earth, blood orange and violets. Excellent concentration for 2022 with beautifully integrated fine tannins, the fresh acidity helping to drive the long, delicately earthy finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

93-95+ Points! The 2020 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos de Champs Martin Cuvée Carline unwinds in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, vine smoke, raw cocoa, cloves, anise and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's layered and complete, with a tightly wound core of vibrant fruit framed by beautifully refined tannins and concluding with a long, saline finish. Less demonstrative than its 2019 and 2018 predecessors, I suspect it will emerge as the finest of the trilogy in the fulness of time, but it will require patience. - William Kelley, robertparker.com