Burgundy

95 Points! From a single premier cru parcel planted by Geantet’s grandfather in 1949 in the nose-bleed bleachers of the commune (above Lavaux St.-Jacques and Les Verroilles), the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Poissenot displays a uniquely alkaline, and maritime note in the nose, along with scents of ripe black cherry and roasted game. This presents terrific depth and richness on the palate, offering a veritable butcher shop of carnal delights, including raw beef, salted, smoked pork and long-hung game. Not that fruit is slighted: there is strong, sweetly ripe black cherry throughout, and a malbec-like amalgam of black raspberry, white pepper and cardamom emerges as the wine takes on air. Creamy, rich, sappy, and sleek, this finishes with gum-clinging strength and refinement, invigoratingly saline and brightly black-fruited. A delight already, this distinctively superb Gevrey will no doubt benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring. - David Schildknecht, robertparker.com

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50+ year old vines from the highest elevation vineyard in Maranges with red clay and chalk soil. 30% whole cluster fermented with indigenous yeast, aged in 228L barrels (20% new).

92-94 Points! The 2023 Maranges La Fussières 1er Cru Rouge is blended with 30% whole bunch. This has an understated bouquet with light earthy red fruit with sous-bois and mineral scents. It opens succinctly in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, very poised, airy and transparent yet with real weight and presence on the finish. Bon vin! - Neal Martin, Vinous

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92 Points! Aromas of cherries, blackberries, rose petals, orange and spices introduce the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Angles, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy wine that's supple and lively, with fine tannins and bright acids. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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95 Points! The 1990 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is one of the highlights of the era. It has a disarmingly gorgeous nose with brambly red fruit, a touch of peppermint and sage, all exquisitely defined and gaining cohesion with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, glistening with vivacity and energy. Few 1990 Côte de Nuits have this sense of tension and the delineation on the finish is brilliant. Superb. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media, Jan 2020  

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96+ Points! The 2022 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is taut and mineral, unwinding in the glass with a typically brooding bouquet of dark berries and plums mingled with hints of rose petals, spices, burning embers and beetroot. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, chalky finish, it will demand some patience. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

95 Points! The Mazis from Dugat-Py is profound, if not as expressively open as other wines in the cellar, yet there is abundant substance here. The aromas are spicy and complex, with an impressive depth of flavour to the black plum fruit and a round, supple structure. The grapes are from 75-year-old vines in Mazis-Bas; with the next vintage, Loïc will add a cuvée of Mazis-Haut from a sharecropping agreement. The fruit is fermented as 90% whole clusters; ageing is in 50% new casks. - Decanter Magazine

 

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91-93 Points! Derived from very old vines in Epointures, Combe du Dessus, Jouise and Les Marchais that produce tiny shot berries, even in a vintage such as this, Dugat-Py's 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roy unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and cherries mingled with notions of peonies and spices. Medium to full-bodied, lively and vibrant, with a fleshy core of fruit and suave tannins, it will offer an unusually broad drinking window by the standards of this concentrated, structured bottling. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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96 Points! This superb wine boasts a dense and lovely ripe plum and blackberry fruit aroma with plenty of depth and substance. The tannins are supple and not at all astringent. The grapes come from several small organically farmed parcels near the top of the appellation close to Chambertin, blended with a bit of Mazoyères. They are vinified 75% as whole clusters, with a very gentle extraction before ageing in cask (one-third new). For maximum pleasure, age this for at least five years from release to allow it to open up. - Decanter Magazine

95+ Points! The 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru reveals the same seriousness it displayed in barrel. Unwinding in the glass with notes of cherries, dark berries, orange zest and petals, it's full-bodied, layered and enveloping, built around a chassis of sweet, powdery tannins and animated by lively acids. While this is generally the domaine's most immediate grand cru, the 2022 will nevertheless demand a bit of patience. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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95 Points! The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has also turned out brilliantly in bottle, and readers will have a hard time choosing between this and the Lavaux Saint-Jacques. Bursting from the glass with aromas of peonies, wild berries, cherries, orange zest and spices, it's full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, enveloping core, concluding with a long, spicy finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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92 Points! The wide spectrum of black berries with notes of candied orange and clove pull you into this rich and fleshy Beaune 1er Cru. However, there's a firm tannic core beneath all this and the powdery tannins at the long finish provide clear contours. Slight salinity there. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

90-92 Points! Pretty and cool yet definitely ripe aromas reveal notes of various dark berries, violet and rose petal. The suave and seductively textured medium weight flavors possess very fine density while the youthfully austere and moderately firm finish makes clear that this will need at least a few years of bottle aging first. - Allen Meadows, Burghound

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95 Points! Deep, bright red. Knockout vibrant nose combines purple and red berries, crushed stone, violet and animal fur. Lush, thick and deep but with terrific chalky energy animating the middle palate. Conveys striking depth to its red fruit and floral flavors, with the 45% new oak practically invisible today. Finishes with huge but round, noble tannins and outstanding lingering sweetness. In a more opulent style than the potentially great 2013, and probably for drinking before that wine. - Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media

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Very typical of Nuits-St-Georges, with a dark plummy fruit, notes of earth and mineral, and an almost savoury edge to it - slightly rustic, yet still very refined. The grapes from this 0.4ha parcel were fermented as 60% whole-cluster, which imparts a slight edge of herbs or menthol to the wine, but this amplifies in a good way the slightly sauvage character. Delicious. 94 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter Magazine

"Background hints of wood and menthol are present on the super-spicy aromas of black cherry, raspberry and a plenitude of floral wisps. The sleek, intense and very rich medium weight plus flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel that possess notably better punch on the youthfully austere, balanced and impressively persistent finale. This is sufficiently compact that it's going to need at least a few years of keeping first." 92-94 Points, Allen Meadows, Burghound Learn More

92-94 Points! The 2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets 1er Cru is a little more fruit-driven on the nose than Bize's other cuvées, offering lifted blueberry and bilberry scents and hints of wild heather. The medium-bodied palate has fine-grain tannins, a little riper than the Aux Fournaux. There’s more flesh yet with plenty of structure exerting a huge grip, rending this approachable but with the ability to age in bottle. Classic Pinot Noir. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

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91-93 Points! The 2021 Irancy Les Cailles is a beautiful wine, busting with fragrant aromas of rose petals, peonies, warm spices and forest floor, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and perfumed palate framed by supple, melting tannins and mouthwatering acids. Spared by the frost, this site can suffer in very hot vintages but clearly thrived in the cooler 2021 vintage.

As I've written before, Thierry Richoux—and now his sons Félix and Gabin—prove that Irancy’s wines can be a revelation. Pioneers of organic farming (and now certified as such), they realize the appellation's potential, limiting their yields, harvesting by hand and maturing their wines for two years—the first year in foudre and tank, the second in smaller oak barrels...Supple, melting and vibrant, with exquisitely floral aromatics, readers who privilege sensuality and perfume over weight and power will want to secure some of the 2021s when they are ultimately released. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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93-95 Points! The 2022 Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru bides its time in the glass, opening discretely with blackberry, redcurrants, briar and forest floor. Quintessentially Pommard, graceful and focused. The oak here is neatly assimilated. The medium-bodied palate has finely sculpted tannins, poised and very refreshing. There's good substance on the finish with insistent grip. This will need 5-6 years in bottle, but this represents a very classy, refined take on the vintage, a very sophisticated Pommard.

Winemaker David Rebourgeon lives virtually next door to Thibaud Clerget, and they have almost opposite personalities; Rebourgeon is more quietly spoken and perhaps introverted. Yet what they both have in common is excellent wines. That’s definitely the case in 2022, where I think Rebourgeon oversaw a couple of marvelous cuvées, amongst the best reds in the Côte de Beaune. “Everything was harvested by hand with a good ambiance,” he tells me after failing to remember exactly when he started picking. “I do both pigeage and remontage but did a little less pigeage this year. The alcohol levels are between 13% and 13.5%. The yields were not too high: We had half a crop in 2021 and one and half of a crop in 2022. The Premier Crus are all matured in 20% to 25% new oak. I am very happy with the 2022s. It was a generous vintage with fine balance and depth.” Readers should check out his tremendous Volnay Santenots and Les Caillerets – amongst the best you will find, plus a seriously good Pommard Grands Epenots. These classically styled wines don’t sing and shout, but their virtues stealthily creep up on you! - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

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94-96 Points! Tremblay's 2021 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru is a hauntingly floral, ethereal wine, wafting from the glass with scents of sweet plums and berries mingled with exotic spices, orange zest and vine smoke. Full-bodied, broad and enveloping, it's deep and seamless, with a cool core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, floral finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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99+ Points! The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with forest floor, crushed stone and a touch of sea spray. The palate is perfectly balanced with a deceivingly understated entry, before a wave of black and red fruit crashes over the senses. It is framed by supremely fine tannin, the intensity building toward a crescendo as it fans out. The aftertaste is unbelievably long, remaining in the mouth 60 seconds after the wine has departed. The best ever – simple as that. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

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94-96 Points! Broader and more flamboyant than the Chapelle-Chambertin, the 2020 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru bursts with aromas of plums, wild berries, exotic spices, orange rind, peonies and smoked meats. Full-bodied, ample and perfumed, it's layered and concentrated, with a fleshy, multidimensional core of fruit, lively acids and a long, expansive finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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92-94 Points! The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes, tasted from a one-year-old barrel (there will (be) 20% new in the final blend) has a tightly-knit bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit, quite elegant after three or four minutes of aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely, confit-like entry, very well balanced with a silky texture, hints of raspberry jam and white pepper on the finish. Beautifully defined from start to finish. Excellent. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

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