Alsace

99 Points! The late-budding and rather late-ripening Clos Saint-Urbain, in the very south of Alsace, meets the very warm and solar 2022 vintage in this wine. What a thrilling setting this is, the more so since August and September brought rather cooler conditions to this cooler but, due to its dark soils and stony terraces in summer, nevertheless warm terroir of the Rangen. Indeed, the pH level was rather low in 2022 (at 3.1) and caused a dry and tense Riesling that doesn't at all show the characteristics of the Rieslings around Turckheim or elsewhere in Alsace. The 2022 Clos Saint-Urbain Rangen de Thann Riesling opens very clear, pure, saline/iodine-inflected and stony on the flinty or smoky nose that represents the volcanic terroir of the clos perfectly or, as Olivier Humbrecht puts it, "Like a volcano fart." Powerful, rich and saline on the palate, this is a dense, highly complex and energetic Saint-Urbain that somehow combines the purity of Dönnhoff's Hermannshöhle with the concentration, power and mineral complexity of the magnesium-rich Rangen. The finish is very intense, dense and aromatic as well as salivating, with a great mix of tannins, saline acidity and perfectly ripe (apricot) fruit. Pressed slowly over 14 hours, this is one of the, if not THE, finest Rangen I have tasted from Zind-Humbrecht. (Loyal readers know that I had them all a year ago.) The 2022 comes in with 12.8% alcohol and is a wine to keep for many years. - Stephan Reinhardt, robertparkercom

96 Points! The 2019 Riesling Schoenenbourg Grand Cru is from a fully south-facing, mid-slope parcel in the center of Schoenenbourg. The vines are 30 to 60 years old. The soil is marl with high gypsum content, partially laced with Triassic sandstone and limestone. Apricot skin and crushed yarrow give a savory first notion on the nose. On the palate, juicy plum takes over, but that textural sense of apricot skin remains, along with a herbal smoothness that is almost creamy and deeply salty amidst its fruitiness. Surprisingly, this wine manages to hide 12 g/L of residual sweetness in its beautiful depth of fruit, in its smooth, gentle, buffered flow, backed by textural finesse. Totally resonant, with sumptuous flavors but a svelte form. Wow. - Anne Krehbiel MW, Vinous Media