Spain

98 Points! The white 2005 Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva comes from a more powerful year. It has a deeper golden color and a nose with more oxidation end evolution, with notes of honey, wax and a little caramel. María José compared it with years like 1976, 1981 or 1957, years that showed more evolution early on. It has a different profile, with a rounder mouthfeel but with the chalky austerity from the limestone soils, finishing tasty and with a salty twist. It was bottled in November 2019 after 14 years in well-seasoned American oak barrels and oak vats. It has 12.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.4 and 6.6 grams of acidity. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

92 Points! Aromas of hazelnuts, chocolate, pine cones and fresh blackberries follow through to a medium- to full-bodied palate with firm, tight-grained tannins and a long, firm finish. The woody tannins will need time to integrate and soften. - JamesSuckling.com

92 Points! Brine with lime aromas as well as dried herbs. Medium- to full-bodied, fresh and incisive, with a touch of fruit and salinity. Nervy finish. - JamesSuckling.com

97+ Points! The super pale and subtle white 2022 El Jardín de las Iguales Macabeo is a wine that feels a lot younger than it is, undeveloped and young. It comes from the same vineyard, a centenary plot, and with the same process as in previous years, fermented and matured in a 1,000-liter oak foudre. It has a complex nose with notes of dry yellow flowers and pollen and a round palate with texture, chalky minerality and a very long finish. It is complete and complex, just a more tender than the 2021, which was more chiseled. This is a wine that really grows in bottle. It was a success to hold it for one year before releasing it, and that's why the vintage in the market is one year older than the red. 1,305 bottles produced, a good year for quality and quantity. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

97+ Points! The 2023 Las Alas de Frontonio La Tejera is super serious, complete and harmonious, with power and elegance. It keeps the profile from the previous years, with similar parameters of alcohol and freshness. It's perfumed and nuanced, floral and citrusy, with faint spice and earthiness, serious and mineral. Th palate is seamless, precise and chiseled, symmetric and balanced, with super elegant tannins. This wine evolves very nicely in bottle. It is very precise. 2,082 bottles, 30 magnums and two double magnums produced. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

92+ Points! The white 2024 Mestizaje Blanco was produced with a blend of 40% Merseguera, 20% Viognier, 18% Malvasía, 14% Xarello and 8% Macabeo, but it feels like it was made with rocks, because the wine is so stony and mineral and lacks fruit. It really feels like liquid rocks, though it does have some herbal and floral notes. It fermented and matured in stainless steel and concrete with lees. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.41 and 5.44 grams of acidity, coming through as balanced and fresh. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

92 Points! Aromas of creamy oak, vanilla, pine cones citrus and plums. A touch of sweet tobacco as well. Classic Rioja reserva style, with fresh acidity on the medium-bodied palate and nicely chewy tannins from the wood. Fluid, firm and quite long. Drink from 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

92 Points!  In spite of the massive tarte-tatin character in the nose, this is mouth-filling but bone dry and powerful with a rather silky finish for a dry Oloroso (which tends to bitterness and austerity). Drink now. - JamesSuckling.com

97 Points! The 2016 Gran Reserva 904 from Rioja Alta is composed of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. It aged for four years in American oak barrels, 20% of which were new. This has a slightly sun-kissed profile, opening with pronounced oaky aromas followed by classic tertiary notes of clove, licorice, vanilla and caramel, alongside hints of tobacco leaf and bay. This is complex in its maturity, offering good volume, creamy texture and a seamless flow across the palate. A touch of camphor appears at the finish, adding energy to the approachable character. The extended aging in oak defines the long, composed finale. - Joaquin Hidalgo, Vinous

97 Points! Such a deep and complex gran reserva with richness and depth. Genuinely intense and harmonious, with cigar box, pine cones, black mushrooms and high-grade wood and vanilla. Juicy, flavorful and really long. Goes on for a minute, if not more. Such a hedonistic Rioja that delivers sheer pleasure. 90% tempranillo and 10% graciano. - JamesSuckling.com

97 Points! The 2013 Reserva Viña Tondonia is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 10% Graciano and Mazuelo, grown in the calcareous soils of the Tondonia meander in Rioja Alta. Aged extensively in American oak, it offers restrained black fruit, wild herbs, balsamic hints and sweet spices with gentle cedar and vanilla notes. Medium-bodied with chalky grip and a layered, tertiary finish, this is a benchmark classic—refined, enduring and unmistakably Tondonia. - Joaquin Hidalgo, Vinous

95 Points! The canonical red 2013 Viña Tondonia Reserva has a developed nose of dried roses and tar that transported me to Piamonte but soon took me back to the López de Heredia cellars in Haro with the mixture of mushrooms, truffles, damp earth and decayed leaves, hints of brick dust and spice. 2013 was a rainy year, with 753 liters of it, well above the average of 530 liters in Haro. It was also a cooler year, and the ripeness was slow, so they didn't start picking until the seventh of October, but they had to hurry up because of the risk of botrytis. The crop was not so big, because they suffered from hail in July that affected the Viña Tondonia, coupled with strong winds that broke many branches. The breakdown in 2013 comes to 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo that fermented in old oak vats with indigenous yeasts. All the wines age in old American oak barrels in their caves, in this case for no less than six years. It comes in at 13% alcohol with a pH of 3.4 and 6.6 grams of acidity, perhaps a lighter vintage with higher acidity that translates into a lot of energy, a fine-boned palate and very fine tannins with a vibrant finish... It should be released in the spring of 2025, almost 12 years after the harvest. And look at the price... - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

98 Points! One of the finest Valbuenas available, showcasing great depth, structure and detail while remaining polished. It exhibits notes of blackberries, cocoa powder, graphite, and high-quality sandalwood, with hints of lard and violets. The standout feature this year is the quantity and quality of the tannins—huge, yet incredibly refined and polished. There are plenty of fine grits that aren’t fully integrated but should harmonize in two to three years. Exceptionally long finish. Will hold effortlessly for the next 20 years. - JamesSuckling.com

96 Points! The 2021 Valbuena comes from a year with pristine grapes, good ripeness and balance, for them one of their finest years when they didn't have to rush and everything happened in a smooth way. The year was marked by the snowstorm Filomena in January, which provided good water reserves, and the rest of the winter had temperatures reaching -15 degrees Celsius! This was a blend of 96% Tinto Fino (a.k.a. Tempranillo) and 4% Merlot aged in barrels and 8,500- and 21,000-liter oak vats during the first year and later only in oak vats. This is the youngest expression of the "Vega" nose, subtler and elegant, more insinuating, less developed and keeping some primary notes, not as tertiary as the Únicos. It comes in at 14% alcohol, with a pH of 3.85 and 4.65 grams of acidity, and it has a medium- to full-bodied palate, with elegant tannins and very good balance. This is one of the finest recent vintages for Valbuena, and in a way, it reminded me of the 2010, with elegance and precision. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

100 Points! Aged five years in oak and another five in bottle, the 2016 Unico is made from a blend of estate parcels, the blend decided after one year in barrel. The producer believes that vintages that end in the number 6 tend to be exceptional, producing its top three years since 2000. This is no exception. Plush, with underlying grip, the wine is 96% Tempranillo with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, an explosive, full-bodied exploration of dense red fruit, tension, and intensity that’s juicy, tense, and energetic. There’s a tremendous amount of elegance and power vying for equal attention. These wines live up to every inch of hype and acclaim. It’s drinking beautifully already and should sing easily another 40-50 years. - Virginie Boone, robertparker.com

99 Points! The 2016 Único was perfumed and elegant, showcasing a very good vintage in the region. Winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga started in 2015—a powerful year—and he remembers 2016 as a very balanced year, with higher yields and finer-boned wines. The winter was mild, and there was a cooler than average spring and a warm summer. September was dry, which provided healthy grapes and balanced ripening. The harvest started the 22nd of September and finished the 11th of October. The bottled wine is 96% Tinto Fino and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.82 and 4.8 grams of acidity. It has the old Vega perfume, intoxicating, complex and nuanced, full of personality and a very energetic palate, vibrant and fresh, not lacking power but with lots of elegance. The wine is released 10 years after the harvest, combining time in new and used American and French oak barrels and 20,000-liter oak vats, and it obviously spends plenty of time in bottle. This is a monumental vintage of Único. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

93 Points! Aromas of dark berries, plums, graphite and herbs. Concentrated and structured with a core of dark fruit supported by a compact, focused finish. Precise, firm tannins add definition and longevity, making this a wine built for aging. - JamesSuckling.com

91 Points! This sleek white crackles with energy and racy acidity, with flavors of crunchy pear, persimmon, lime peel and lemon thyme underscored by stone and salt notes. Offers good length on the bright, minerally finish. Drink now through 2028. - Wine Spectator

98 Points! The more delicate, ethereal and fine 2023 La Dama has a paler color and is fragrant and subtle, with a sense of fragility and delicacy like no vintage before. The grapes from the lower part of the main vineyard, called Lupier, where you find less slate (but still slate), were picked in early September and were vinified with 100% full clusters and a long maceration. The higher part was vinified separately and might be released as a new single-vineyard wine; but there are only a couple of barrels of it, and they have not yet decided what to do. The alcohol level is contained, at around 13.5%. It's precise, clean and focused and has purity of aromas and flavors, a delicate texture, super fine tannins, balance and lots of energy. The two wines are now more different than ever. It's really stunning, bravo! - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

97+ Points! The bottled 2023 San Lázaro, from the 1.62 hectares of vines they have, shows contained ripeness and has 14.4% alcohol. This is always more restrained, and there's no exuberance here; there's subtleness, finesse and verticality. It has a spicy side, with notes reminiscent of curry, a little à la Vosne-Romanée, a little cinnamon perhaps, but with the Tempranillo austerity, of course. The palate is medium-bodied, with great balance and super fine and elegant tannins. The wine is a little closed at the moment, but it should grow with time in bottle. It's really good and challenges El Carretil this year. I give it the edge—perhaps because it is the more approachable of the 2023s. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

97 Points! The only current red Gran Reserva is the 1995 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva, the one that is produced exactly the same as before, including fining with egg whites and sealing with red wax. 1995 was an excellent and early harvest, the grapes achieved full ripeness and were harvested under the sun during two weeks starting October 9. The wine, which exceptionally achieved 13% alcohol, is the usual blend, 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo (Cariñena). Like all their wines, it fermented with indigenous yeasts in old oak vats and as a Gran Reserva it matured in old American oak barrels for ten years! Yes, it was bottled in November 2006 and launched in 2015, a full 20 years after the harvest. This light-colored, ethereal 1995 is the essence of Viña Tondonia. It has developed aromas and complexity gained with the time in bottle, of incense, leather, cured meat, cherries in liqueur, cold bonfire and spices. The palate is super-tasty, with fully-resolved tannins and very good acidity. The texture is super-fine, sophisticated and ethereal with gob-smacking balance. Intense, powerful and elegant, too. Hard to believe, but this red feels too young and while approachable, I'd wait a couple of years or more because it will be much better. The profile follows the style of the great classics of the 1950s and 60s. Bottles like this are the ones that created the López de Heredia myth. This could be lighter than the 1994, but in the long run I believe the 1995 will be the better bottle. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

97 Points! The 2019 Prado Enea Gran Reserva is their more traditional Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, mostly from Rioja Alta (Sajazarra, Cellorigo and Fonzaleche) at 550 to 700 meters in altitude, but the Garnacha is from different plots in the zone of Tudelilla at a high altitude. They didn't produce Prado Enea in 2017 or 2018, so this is the follow-up of the superb 2016. The bunches were harvested into 200-kilogram boxes, destemmed, put through optical sorting and fermented in small oak casks with indigenous yeasts. The élevage in barrel was extended to 36 months. The nose is phenomenal, keeping the essence of Muga with a touch of Garnacha perfume; it's still young and undeveloped for its age, not yet tertiary. The wine is full-bodied but fine-boned and has 14.7% alcohol, a pH of 3.46 and 5.81 grams per liter acidity. Still young, the wine has power and elegance and very good aging potential. 119,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2023. The next vintages will be 2021 and 2022, and after that perhaps 2025, but certainly no 2023 or 2024 wine. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

92 Points! The NV Moscatel Superior Emilin, produced from Moscatel grapes sourced from Las Cruces vineyard in Chipiona, basically the only place that still grows Moscatel grapes, which has very sandy soil. Legend is that there are some pre-phyloxera vines there... This wine is also quite dark for its age, and has the telltale Moscatel profile of candied orange, honeysuckle and sweet Muscat grapy notes. They do not dehydrate the grapes, they wait and harvest them very late, with some overripeness. With some time it surprises me because it ends up smelling of cola sweets. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com