Duménil Brut Millésime 2015

Champagne Duménil is one of those discoveries that reminds us how many great growers are still hiding in Champagne. This small family estate, now led by Frédérique Duménil, has roots stretching back to the 1800s, but one of its most important decisions came in 1969, when Frédérique's grandmother Cécile planted Chardonnay in the Pinot-dominated Montagne de Reims. She loved vintage Champagne and believed Chardonnay would give their wines greater longevity. More than 50 years later, the 2015 Duménil Vintage Brut proves her right. A blend of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir from cooler north-facing slopes, it spent more than six years on the lees before disgorgement in 2022.

Now roughly 11 years from vintage, it's drinking beautifully, with bright stone fruit, citrus, subtle tropical notes and a gorgeous green-gold hue. Rather than being heavily brioche-driven, it shows impressive freshness, precision and energy, with the structure to explain exactly why Cécile believed so strongly in Chardonnay. Vintage Champagne routinely sells for $85 to $100+, and this would be an excellent value at its normal $70 retail. At $34.98, it's ridiculous. Eleven-year-old, vintage-dated grower Champagne with more than six years on the lees for under $35, and we have only 180 bottles.