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WS Top 100 2021 #45

97 Points! Juicy and muscular, with a ball of plum paste, warmed fig compote and black currant reduction flavors that need time to unwind. Ample graphite- and bramble-accented grip underscores the fruit on the finish, while a ganache note finds room to strut its stuff in the end. Should be one of the longer-lived wines of the vintage. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz. Best from 2030 through 2055. - Wine Spectator

94 Points! The 2024 Red Wine Evangelho Vineyard is bold, juicy and wonderfully expressive right out of the gate. A burst of dark red/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, rose petal and pomegranate makes a strong first impression. Carignane is front and center in this gorgeous, engaging Contra Costa red. Readers will have a very hard time keeping their hands off of this. What a gem. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Own-rooted, 1890s-planted vines in over thirty feet of pure sand...

92+ Points! The dusty and floral 2023 Susumaniello Askos offers a refined bouquet of crushed blackberries, incense and exotic spice. Silky and round, its core of tactile minerals adds form toward the close. The 2023 finishes structured and long, leaving a coating of fine tannins and a lingering resonance of polished wild berry fruit. This could use some time in the cellar to come fully into focus, but it shows the complexity that Susumaniello can deliver. - Eric Guido, Vinous Media

96 Points! The 2021 Barbaresco Roncaglie is terrific. Sweet rose petal, cinnamon, leather and wild cherry soar from the glass. Medium in body, with excellent structure and tons of class, the Roncaglie has so much to offer. It's a wine of harmony and breeding through and through. The long, persistent finish is so gorgeous. Time in the glass brings out the wine's stature. This is one of the very finest wines I have tasted at this address. High class. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

The only Demeter certified Biodynamic® brandy in the US, this offering is a truly agricultural spirit. Fermented, distilled in a German copper still and aged on the premises by Gena Nonini, whose family has farmed here for generations, the Marian Farms brandy is one of our all-time favorites. We are lucky to sell this blend of casks between 7 and 13 years old. Many of the great whiskey drinks were also brandy drinks. Try it in your Manhattan. Try it in your old fashioned.

Quick to satisfy but often overlooked, the Whiskey Sour is a century-old, no-frills crowd-pleaser that has stood the test of time for good reason - it's simply delicious. The perfect balance of sour & sweet complements the bourbon whiskey beautifully. It's a downright democratic cocktail, equally refreshing wherever it's enjoyed. Some folks like egg whites in their whiskey sour but for the benefit of all we chose to leave that out of the can.

Tasting Notes: Caramelized fruits, vanilla, oak, raw sugar, and tart lemon.

93 Points! The 2018 Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello wows the senses with a burst of medicinal cherries, dusty sage and exotic spice. This is lifted and full of energy with a sweet and sour twang of citrus and sour berries excited by zesty acidity. The 2018 tapers off with a gentle tug of fine-grained tannins and lingering concentration, leaving the palate clenched with youthful poise yet still aching for another sip. The 2018 may not be as long lived as bigger vintages, but its a total charmer. This went through 51 days of maceration without temperature control and was refined for 34 months in large barrels. - Eric Guido, Vinous Media

From the importer: The Pipparello vineyard is a hilltop site in Montefalco at 1300 feet above sea level. The soil is clay and gravel. The vines in the vineyard are a minimum of 20 years old. Harvest takes place normally during the middle of October. The ultimate wine is a blend of roughly 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano and 15% Sagrantino. The cuvaison extends for a period between 40 to 50 days. After the alcoholic fermentation this wine spends a year in stainless steel tanks and then two years in large oak barrels and is released after an additional year of bottle-aging.

Grown, harvested and fermented by the famed Hospices de Nuits, then aged, finished and bottled by the great Emmanuel Rouget in his cellars with his barrels. The cuvée ‘St Julien, Plateaux’, sourced from two different sites in Nuits, offers a deeper, darker hue. This rich wine requires more time to reveal itself and is tauter on the finish and has longer cellaring potential. Rouget's domaine Nuits sells for $300, this one for a little more than half that!

This is the BEST Schiava I've ever had. Which is saying a ton nowadays with the renaissance Schiava is enjoying with climate change..

From the importer:

Martin Ramoser and his family have three hectares of Schiava and Lagrein that have been organically and biodynamically farmed since 2018, upon Martin’s return from wine school. The reds come from the historical Santa Magdalena hill, and the old-vine Sauvignon Blanc parcel (purchased in 2020) is grown farther south, facing east on a steep slope, protected from the afternoon sun. The rock type for the red wines is dominated by igneous porphyry, but it also contains alluvium deposited from the Eisack River, while the Sauvignon Blanc is grown on limestone and sedimentary soils. Everything is harvested by hand and varying levels of stems are included in the natural fermentations of reds. The Sauvignon is electric and textured and the Lagrein is a tamed-but-still-beefy, inky, minerally red, and the highlights of his compelling range are fine and focused Schiavas aged in large, old botti.

97% Schiava/3% Lagrein harvested from 50-70-year-old vines in the volcanic porphyry bedrock and alluvial and bedrock-derived topsoil facing south at 320-400m.

30% whole cluster, 2-week natural fermentation with frequent pumpovers to work against Schiava’s naturally high propensity for reduction. Aged 10 months in ancient 12hl botte. No filtration or fining.

95–96 Points – James Suckling
“The quality of the tannins shows through nicely, with black currants, orange peel, crushed stones and a hint of fresh herbs. It's medium-bodied with a creamy texture and lots of polish. Long, complete and succulent, with a touch of salt.”

94–96 Points – Jeb Dunnuck
“Bright cassis, graphite, candied violets, and exotic flower nuances all emerge from the 2025 Château Malartic-Lagravière. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has a pure, focused mouthfeel, fine, polished tannins, and a great finish. It's a beautiful, layered, pretty Pessac-Léognan with remarkable charm and character.”

95 Points – Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux
“Enjoyable, sappy, plenty of lift and dark fruit, incense and sandalwood, you can see the structure and shape of the tannins and it is very much a wine where the acidity is controlled, giving a really juicy mouthfeel, great energy, definition and precision. Excellent job.”

94–96 Points – Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider
“Flowers, tobacco leaves, cigar box, dark cherries, blackberries and a touch of espresso create the perfume. On the palate, the wine is elegant, fresh, refined, and long. Everything is in balance, with a lingering finish that tastes as good as it feels. If you can wait, give it a few years of bottle age, and it should evolve for 2 decades with ease.”

93 Points! This new multi-vintage cuvée feels very at home in Laurent-Perrier's lineup, displaying some density and concentration evident in the choice of the reserve wines from all around Champagne which constitute the blend from 2019, 2018, 2016 and 2014. Led by 55% Chardonnay, with the balance Pinot Noir, there's a super-ripe, juicy orange fruit and tropical lilt to the profile here, with succulent apricot, pear and lemon peel pulled into quite a firm, tightly bound coil of structure. It's detailed with an energising, super subtle twist of quinine-like bitterness and some richer roasted almond notes hinting at maturity. For now it feels complete, yet not fully unwound. There's fine, compressed intensity here that will emerge beautifully with a little time on cork or, failing that, enough time to warm up in the glass. - Decanter Magazine

92 Points! The NV Brut Héritage, blended exclusively from reserve wines with half from Grand Crus, consists of 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir and spent at least four years on lees. Lemon oil suffused with smoke and rye bread rind creates a subtle but enticing scent on the nose. Frothy, lively bubbles on the palate somewhat detract from the wine's underlying smoky nuance, which shimmers between smoky plum, sponge cake and lemon. This lovely wine will benefit from a little more bottle age. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. - Vinous Media

94 Points! The 2011 Reserva red is a field blend from old vines (with 80% of the grapes sourced from vines 80+ years old), plus 20% combined of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca from vines of approximately 20 years of average age. The blend was aged in French barriques (70% new) for 17 months. In one of Douro's biggest vintages, Vallado managed to produce a surprisingly elegant and nuanced wine. That was true the first and second time I saw this long ago. This has evolved well. It shows finesse and grace at this point. The big tannins have moderated, and the wine never seems as ripe or as jammy as the 2007. (That's a relative term—the 2007 isn't all that jammy as these things go.) Yet this is a prime-time wine with finesse, elegance and fine fruit, finishing with some understatement in flavor. Unlike the 2007, this isn't as likely today to hit you over the head or grab your attention, but it is completely seductive and perfectly balanced. The texture caresses the palate with velvet. The tannins are much riper. The fruit is still there and tasty but never too obvious. It will be interesting to see how this holds and how it evolves. Unlike the 2007 or even the 2008, this seems ready without a lot of concern over whether future aging will make it a lot better. - Mark Squires, robertparker.com

93 Points! Only just bottled so still quite introverted. Medium-bodied, with good concentration of fruit, quite robust tannins and good acidity. This will be excellent in time. Half whole bunch, and you feel just a touch of aromatic stems, but no excessive greenness or textural harshness. From three parcels around the estate of old-vine Grenache that are between 50 and 70 years old. Partially destemmed, fermented in raw cement tanks then aged in old barriques for 12 months. - Decanter Magazine

97 Points! Wow. This is very powerful 2010 Barolo with a great depth of fruit and powerful tannins. Full and super-structured Barolo. Goes on for minutes. Great wine from a popular vintage. - JamesSuckling.com

95 Points! Beginning to turn the corner, this red exhibits fragrant aromas of cherry, leather, mushroom and spice. Smooth and full of ripe fruit, with a firm structure for support. Still needs some time, but already shows complexity and harmony. Best from 2018 through 2035. - Wine Spectator

98+ Points! In contrast, the 2021 Syrah Il Padrino Bien Nacido Vineyard is more masculine and feral, with ripe black fruits, cracked black pepper, leather, iron, and spring flowers, and a certain bloody character developing with time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it has a similar level of polish but is a touch more concentrated and lengthy on the palate, with ripe, building tannins and awesome length. Drink this spectacular Syrah over the coming 10-12 years. - Jeb Dunnuck

98 Points! Tight and reserved, showcasing the depth of 55-year-old chardonnay vines from Eyrie Vineyard, one of the oldest existing plantings in Willamette, dating back to 1968. A mineral-driven, umami-rich profile with wet leaves, subtle quince, sesame seeds and hints of tangerines. Structured and compact, with a phenolic tension and a savory, earthy, clay-like character. There’s a lot going on in this wine. It is pure, full and very long. Needs time to fully unfold. Whole-cluster pressed. Better from 2027. - JamesSuckling.com

95+ Points! The 2016 Boca is every bit as impressive as it was from barrel, but it needs time. The only question is how much. Effusive aromatics soar out of the glass, suggesting a feeling of openness that is not quite there on the palate, where the wine is decidedly austere. The 2016 is a classic Boca laced with expressive small red berry fruits, blood orange, mint and rose petal. It will be magnificent once the tannins relent a bit. Don't miss it! - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Tropical and mature, with the texture of melted chocolate and one of the finest finishes a single malt can bring, this stunning whisky calls for quiet admiration. Round and velvety, yet developed and fresh. Smoothed over by time, but with a beating heart.

Leatherwood honey and spicy gingerbread followed by juicy prunes and fresh lemon peel on the nose followed by a palate bursting with dark chocolate, tropical fruit and spices. Long and mellow on the finish with notes of creamy vanilla and citrus.