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The experimental yet profound Alta Alella (Cava) VRIACC ICL 2019 probably turned out shockingly better than anyone within this program had anticipated. It is a beautiful wine, organically grown (of course) and produced with the ancestral method in bottle for the second fermentation with no added sulfites. It basks in its complete lack of artifice, a clean, pure, intensely flavored result with soaring aromatics of citrus and white flowers, a fresh yet quietly concentrated palate and a length of finish that we only see from the best cava wines. It’s cava, but it isn’t, y’know what I mean? It’s something new and wonderful, and a joy to drink. Not only that, it’s a sign of GREAT things to come as these intrepid wineries, scientists and vine experts work together to make sure there are more and even more beautiful wines coming down the pike over the next few decades.