{"id":2910,"date":"2018-11-01T19:29:22","date_gmt":"2018-11-01T19:29:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/?p=2910"},"modified":"2018-12-01T22:24:26","modified_gmt":"2018-12-01T22:24:26","slug":"the-big-book-of-bubbles-2018","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/2018\/11\/01\/the-big-book-of-bubbles-2018\/","title":{"rendered":"The Big Book of Bubbles: 2018"},"content":{"rendered":"

NO1 FAMILY ESTATE CUVEE NO1 BRUT <\/u>BLANC<\/u> DE<\/u> BLANCS <\/u>MARLBOROUGH<\/u><\/a> NV<\/u> –<\/strong> We figured the perfect place to start our bubbly piece was with No1.\u00a0 It was only logical.\u00a0 Actually it might seem a little audacious to call themselves that, but then Daniel Le Brun is from Champagne where the Le Brun family can trace its roots back to the mid-1700s.\u00a0 The knowledge came with Daniel, instilled in him by his father in Champagne.\u00a0 It was simply a matter of finding the fruit.\u00a0 The Wairau Valley in Marlborough was where they found Chardonnay grapes they could turn into a world class sparkler, and they use only their own estate fruit.\u00a0\u00a0 By controlling the viticulture, like a grower Champagne in France, they get the fruit exactly the way they want it.<\/p>\n

To be honest, we were a little skeptical going in but the wine speaks for itself and can hold its own with \u2018real\u2019 Champagne.\u00a0 The Wine Advocate comments make the point, \u201cThe NV Cuvee No 1 is 100% Chardonnay and stays on the lees for two years prior to disgorgement. It’s light-bodied and delicate, with toasty, biscuity and faintly nutty notes over lemon-lime fruit. It would be great with oysters on the half shell now, but you might also hold it for a few years to let it develop richer, nuttier nuances. Dosage is seven grams per liter, so the wine finishes crisp and quite dry… 91 Points.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Made in the methode champenoise<\/em> (fermented in bottle) it is super clean, with a fresh, insistent, surprisingly fine bead and creamy-yet bright-texture.\u00a0 If you are going to step outside the box, this one delivers, and that\u2019s from folks (us) that are \u2018Champagne first\u2019. ($29.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

LUCIEN ALBRECHT BRUT <\/u>BLANC<\/u> DE<\/u> BLANCS CREMANT D’ALSACE NV<\/u><\/a>–<\/strong>For years this was a go-to for us in the value sparkling arena.\u00a0 Then there was a period of, um, financial unrest where the wines really weren\u2019t delivering the way they had previously.\u00a0 We kind of forgot about Albrecht for a while, but a recent tasting showed they had found their mojo<\/em> again.\u00a0 They were one of the pioneers of this genre here, beginning production in 1971.\u00a0 Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay are the workhorses here with the grapes harvested by hand early in the vintage mainly from the Orschwihr area.<\/p>\n

Fine bead, creamy mouth feel, a little more weight to the mid-palate than most probably as a function of the grape blend, this plays big with citrus, apple and pear notes highlighted with notes of terroir. It was kind of our little secret as the press didn\u2019t talk much about it.\u00a0 But the Brits know a good buy when they see it and this one got some kudos from the prestigious Decanter Magazine.\u00a0 Their panel, made up of a number of MWs, said, \u201cClean, light but aromatic nose – lemon, grapefruit, with a slight yeasty character. Vigorous ripe fruit flavours mingle within a gently creamy texture, balanced by crisp acidity and fine bubbles on the long, citrusy finish…92 points.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

At about half the price (or less) of most Champagnes, this will fill the bill nicely.\u00a0 ($15.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

LASSALLE BRUT CACHET D\u2019OR NV<\/u><\/a>– <\/strong>The ladies of Lassalle have been a part of our program in various capacities for a long time.\u00a0 Lately it has been their Cachet d\u2019Or that has been a winner in our tastings.\u00a0 Made from roughly one-third each Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, all from estate vineyards, this is a brisk, yeastier, more citrus-focused flavor profile with some volume to the mid-palate and pleasing lift to the finish.\u00a0 The vines here average 50 years old situated in limestone and clay, and there\u2019s a sneaky depth to the fruit probably as a result of those older vines.<\/p>\n

There is a verve to this bubbly and florality to the nose.\u00a0 Wine Spectator had some positive notes, \u201cThere’s an open-knit, almost airy feel to this vibrant Champagne, which carries a concentrated range of juicy pear and black raspberry fruit, with hints of crystallized honey. Shows gingersnap biscuit and verbena flavors on the chalky texture, gaining momentum on the racy, zesty finish. Drink now through 2022…92 points.\u201d<\/em> While this is fine on its own, it definitely elevates with some nibbles and again, offers excellent value for the genre. ($34.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

HENRI BILLIOT BRUT RESERVE GRAND CRU-<\/u><\/strong><\/a>\u00a0This house is one of those where our lasting impression is that, if you don\u2019t like Billiot, you probably don\u2019t like puppies or rainbows either.\u00a0 There were a couple of turbulent years but this is the first front to back vintage for Laetitia Billiot who spent a few years cleaning up the cellars after dad pretty much coasted into retirement.\u00a0 In its normal mode, this is a round, mouthfilling, creamy offering that highlights broad engaging apple and pear fruit, with flecks of spice and toast.<\/p>\n

As importer Terry Theise correctly stated, \u201cThis calling-card wine is 50% 2015 (and without grassiness) and 25% each \u201914 and \u201913, … mostly Pinot Noir, and it\u2019s 98% of the (quality of) Billiot some of us remember (so fondly); lively, animated, fruit-driven and spicy. Essentially this is Laetitia\u2019s first wine\u2014that is, the first wine she controlled entirely from harvest to vinification to tirage to disgorgement.\u201d Billiot, as it should be, is a lovely thing…a full flavored, expressive bubbly that will grab your attention. ($44.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

HENRIOT BRUT SOUVERAIN NV<\/a>–<\/u>–<\/strong>If there is anything that can serve as an example of how wine is constantly in motion, it is Champagne.\u00a0\u00a0 The whole idea of a non-vintage cuvee is to have something that tastes virtually the same every year.\u00a0 It\u2019s a great concept but with the variation of vintages in the blend and how those blends interact and develop over time make it near impossible to have it come across exactly the same. Some wines vary year to year more than others. Henriot\u2019s Brut Souverain is one of those Champagnes.\u00a0 Sometimes it\u2019s a near miss, other years it is pandering and pleasing mouthful.\u00a0 This is one of those exceptional years where it makes for a rather joyous beverage.<\/p>\n

The mix here is 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, and 5% Pinot Meunier, and 2\/3 of the blend comes from Grand and Premier Cru sites.\u00a0 It is on the lees for a minimum of three years and the dosage is on the drier side at 8 g\/l.\u00a0 To illustrate our point here\u2019s the description from the 90-point Spectator review from a couple years ago, \u201cA firm Champagne, with a lively bead and a minerally undertow, this offers flavors of fresh-cut apple, lemon pith, spring blossom and smoke.\u201d\u00a0<\/em> This version is much more outgoing but still has a serious side. \u00a0Their verbiage is much more appealing, too, \u201cA finely balanced and creamy Champagne. Smoky mineral and toast notes on the nose lead to flavors of crunchy white peach and lemon curd, with a green waft of spring blossom on the fresh palate\u202691 points.\u201d<\/em>\u00a0 The difference on the \u2018scoreboard\u2019 is only a point, but in the glass is another matter.\u00a0 Delicious fizz. ($39.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

SANGER BRUT GRAND CRU NV BLANC DE BLANCS TERROIR NATAL<\/a><\/u>–<\/strong>It\u2019s not often you get to tell a story like this one and it\u2019s also important to understand that this probably couldn\u2019t happen here.\u00a0 True we don\u2019t have Champagne vineyards close by like the high school that is the center of this story does.\u00a0 But, honestly, high school students being allowed to get involved with the production of alcoholic beverages simply wouldn\u2019t play in America. \u00a0Anyway, in 1919, the war and phylloxera had pretty much trashed many wine producing areas in France.\u00a0 The Puisards, a successful merchant couple with no heirs, decided to donate their lands to the government on the condition that there would be a winemaking school created in Avise.\u00a0\u00a0 That school, Avize Viti Campus, was officially founded in 1927 and, in 1952, the students and teachers along with local cellarmasters and winemakers, collaborated to produce a Champagne at the school.<\/p>\n

Champagne Sanger is that Champagne, and it is a nod to the success of the school and the collaborative process.\u00a0 Sanger is 100% Chardonnay, coming exclusively from the Grand Cru vineyards belonging to the school and from the areas of Cramant, Oger and Avize, some owned by the school and some from local growers who are alumni.\u00a0 It sees 60 months en triage<\/em> (the minimum is only 15 months for the appellation) and is finished to a dosage of 6g\/l.<\/p>\n

It is extra brut without being overly aggressive, comes off as bone dry yet shows plenty of fruit (so many low dosage efforts are painfully dry) and plays sensationally with both food and by itself.\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0This is truly Champagne made by Champenois and we recommend it highly for its price performance (all Grand Cru fruit for under $45!) and distinctive styling.\u00a0 It also has some unique character points as, along with the typical brioche, citrus and apple elements one typically finds from the area, there is also and engaging spice nuance and notes that remind one of red berries.\u00a0 Very cool bubbles from a very unique source. ($44.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

DELAMOTTE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS LE MESNIL 2008<\/u><\/a>– <\/strong>Since we got the early word that the 2008 vintage was something special, wee have been patiently waiting (OK, maybe not that<\/em> patiently) for the single harvest bubbles to come along.\u00a0 Here we have this rather marvelous vintage, some of the best dirt in all of Champagne in the esteemed Grand Cru Le Mesnil, and at the helm the Delamotte team who also dabble in another project called Salon.\u00a0 We and others have always promoted the low-keyed Delamotte as \u2018the best Champagne you never heard of\u201d.\u00a0 Given it\u2019s exceptional vineyards, the winery sticks to a very simple formula of reflecting the site in the wine.\u00a0 That means that instead of the rather fat, ripe styled bubbly that seems to be more broadly popular in the marketplace, Delamotte by contrast is sleek, racy and refined.\u00a0 It isn\u2019t necessarily for everyone, but for true Champagne aficionados it is a very special choice.<\/p>\n

Considering the whole great vintage, great vineyard and great producer we posed, it certainly will encourage great expectations.\u00a0 In that rather demanding spot, it succeeds admirably.\u00a0 A pair of 93 point scores from Vinous Media and Wine Enthusiast<\/strong> (very good scores for non Grand Marques), the words tell the real story.\u00a0 From Antonio Galloni, \u201cThe 2008 Delamotte is a deep, resonant Champagne endowed with stunning lays of depth. In 2008 Delamotte has all of the kaleidoscopic, multi-dimensional personality of the vintage, but the full malolactic fermentation softens some of the natural angularity of the year. Pastry, vanillin, baked apple, dried flowers and chamomile are all beautifully sculpted in the glass. This is one of the most accessible young 2008 Champagnes readers will come across, but there is real staying power and more than enough depth to support many years of fine drinking. Dosage is 6.5 grams per liter.\u201d\u00a0<\/em> ($79.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

ROEDERER BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS 2010<\/u><\/strong><\/a>– <\/strong>In truth, sometimes we wonder why we do things like this.\u00a0 For most of the world Roederer is about their broad market offering, Brut Premier, and the iconic Cristal.\u00a0 It\u2019s actually a common problem in Champagne where some pretty fantastic work in between the entry-level and the ultra-premium simply gets ignored.\u00a0 Maybe it is the pricing that people don\u2019t reconcile, perhaps the fact that these specialty efforts reflect a different style and expression than the mainstream offerings, but it is certain that getting people to pay attention to wines like this represents something of a challenge. \u00a0Undaunted, however, we will continue to try.<\/p>\n

People don\u2019t typically think about Roederer as a Blanc de Blancs producer, and this represents somewhat of a step away from what people think is a typical Roederer profile that relies heavily on Pinot Noir.\u00a0 The 2010 was not a cachet vintage either.\u00a0 But Champagne is a big place and the Cote des Blancs is a unique spot, so you can\u2019t presume you know without tasting and this sleek gem really caught our attention not only for its exceptional \u2018performance\u2019 but for its well-executed departure from the house style.\u00a0 A delicious surprise, one could make the point that Champagne types are artists too and like to work different canvases and there wouldn\u2019t be much point in making several different bottlings if they all tasted the same.\u00a0 Antonio Galloni seems to have found a lot to like here as well, but touches on the same subject, \u201cAn overachiever in this range, the 2010 Brut Blanc de Blancs is terrific. Green apple, mint, white flowers and mineral-driven notes give the 2010 freshness vivacity and lift. The Blanc de Blancs is one of the hidden gems in the Roederer lineup and does not seem to get much attention. That is a shame, as it is a first class wine all the way.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

By the way, no Cristal was produced in 2010 so the Chardonnay used for that cuvee found its way into this little gem…($74.98<\/strong>)<\/p>\n

HUET PETILLANT RESERVE 2009<\/a>– <\/u>We have repeatedly stated our love for outstanding sparkling wines.\u00a0 We would also not be afraid to put forth the statement that there are few people on the planet that are bigger fans of Vouvray Huet than we are.\u00a0 But those have always been separate issues.\u00a0 Huet\u2019s \u2018petillant\u2019 has been on our shelf on a few occasions simply as one of the best versions of the eclectic category sparkling Vouvray.\u00a0 But prior examples have been just that, good examples of the genre but not necessarily transcendent.\u00a0 So given that, no one was more surprised than we were when this version caused our jaws to drop.\u00a0 We kept going back and retasting it to see if we had just had a moment or the wine was really that amazing.\u00a0 The wine performed every time.<\/p>\n

We have never had a sparkling Chenin Blanc this good.\u00a0 Not even close. These wines are usually serviceable and clean, if a bit on the lean side and not overly expressive.\u00a0 The Huet 2009 simply had more of everything.\u00a0 It was vigorous and zesty as one would expect from the category. But the expression of the varietal aspects of Chenin here were extraordinary.\u00a0 Peach, lemon drop, apple skin, hints of honey and cinnamon, a pure and clear expression of the varietal which created a lot of interesting nuance and a rounder palate feel.\u00a0 Not sure what elevated this particular version above the previous renditions, but the 2009 Petillant Reserve is at a level far above anything we have ever had from this category in general or even Huet in particular.\u00a0 Based on our tastings, we\u2019d go so far as to say this is a consideration even against Champagne.\u00a0 That is a rare statement for us.<\/p>\n

The grapes for this sparkler in 2009 came from the younger vines of all three of their storied parcels; Le Mont, Clos du Bourgand Haut Lieu.\u00a0 The largest portion came from Haut Lieu where the average vine age was younger overall in 2009. The grapes were then sorted on the table to separate bunches destined for the vintage p\u00e9tillant and for the reserve.\u00a0 Their petillant spends a minimum of 6 years on lees.\u00a0\u00a0 Bear in mind it says \u2018minimum\u2019 as the wines are disgorged as orders come in.\u00a0 So the later into the release period, the longer that bottle has on its lees. This applies to all p\u00e9tillant, and is often a reason why there is such a vast difference between the prior vintage and the new release.<\/p>\n

In the end of course, it\u2019s the product of some pretty outstanding fruit.\u00a0 As Stephan Reinhardt of Wine Advocate calls it, \u201cThe golden-yellow colored 2009 Vouvray P\u00e9tillant Brut R\u00e9serve offers a beautifully pure, deep, rich, intense and refreshing mineral bouquet of perfectly ripe (tropical) fruits and chalky flavors. Full-bodied, highly complex and very long, this is a gorgeous sparkling wine from Vouvray. Dry, firmly structured, mouth-filling and finesse-full, with great elegance and a delicate mousse, the 2009 has a persistently intense and fruity finish with a stimulatingly salinity and grip in the aftertaste. This R\u00e9serve should have an excellent aging potential….93 points.\u201d\u00a0<\/em> As we said, this one caught us completely off guard, and, if you are going to step outside the box bubbly-wise, this<\/em> is the direction to go first.<\/p>\n

MICHEL GONET BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU-<\/u><\/a> This is something of a throwback in today\u2019s world of \u2018low\u2019 and \u2018no\u2019 dosage, single vineyard, sometimes painful Champagnes.\u00a0 This is a beautifully put together expression of Chardonnay from the finest terroirs in Champagne such as of Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil sur Oger.\u00a0 \u00a0Classic toasted brioche and citrus in the nose, the same through the palate with the addition of a little apple and pear and the expected subtle but insistent minerality.\u00a0 Perhaps most important, there\u2019s a nice lift to the finish which is definitely a plus as toasty styles don\u2019t always end cleanly.\u00a0 Simply put, even with our hard and fast rules, this one was too good to leave out.<\/p>\n

Champagne Gonet was founded in 1802 and since then, six generations of family members have kept the project on an upward path. In 1973, Michel Gonet, whose Champagnes bear his name today, modernized and enlarged the cellars with the goal of further improving the quality of the wine making.\u00a0 Today, the estate covers 40 hectares of the best champagne soil stretching from South of Epernay Grand Cru villages to the hillsides of Sezannes to Vindey. \u00a0\u00a0Because the fruit is all from Grand Cru sites, this non-vintage Brut can carry the title Grand Cru and the Champagnes demeanor clearly demonstrates the pedigree of the fruit.<\/p>\n

Even with the centuries of history, the family seems to be doing what it takes to get better and better.\u00a0 Daughter Sophie is now at the helm and they have brought in Marco Pelletier, sommelier extraordinaire, Paris restaurateur, and a partner in the avant guard Bordeaux project Le Jardin de Galouchey (we did an offer on it some months back) to be involved in the assemblage.\u00a0 A precise, racy, fresh, and very classy Champagne with a very low 3g\/l dosage, this can play alone or with lighter dishes.\u00a0 Given the pedigree, the price is another plus.<\/p>\n

BUENA VISTA CHAMPAGNE BRUT LA VICTOIRE NV-<\/u><\/a> Say what?\u00a0 Isn\u2019t Buena Vista a California wine and therefore unable to call itself Champagne?\u00a0 Well the story here is anything but ordinary.\u00a0 It starts with Agoston Haraszthy, most recognized as being the Father of California viticulture.\u00a0 He was also the father of six children and his third son, Arpad, spent over two years studying in Champagne to learn the craft of sparkling wine.\u00a0 He later became the first to introduce M\u00e9thode Traditionelle sparkling wine into California winemaking.\u00a0 Arpad\u2019s sparkling wine, Eclipse, was one of the most celebrated in the nineteenth century.<\/p>\n

The wine itself is made up of 70% Pinot Noir, from Premier Cru vineyards from the Montagne de Reims, and 30% Chardonnay, mostly from Grand Cru in Le Mesnil sur Oger and Chouilly.\u00a0 The wine received a dosage of 8.7 g\/L and was aged for more than three years (the law in Champagne requires aging 15 months minimum for non-vintage wines). The nose here is fresh apple, stone fruits, and pear with a touch of honey and a whiff of brioche though far from \u2018doughy\u2019.\u00a0 In the mouth, it is the freshness that impresses, all of the flavors bright and lively without being the least bit shrill.<\/p>\n

This is, as one might expect from Buena Vista, something true to type but made to appeal to a broader audience.\u00a0 If we were making a slogan, here it would be \u2018you don\u2019t have to think, you can just drink\u2019.\u00a0 Most of the new things we see coming out these days are zero or near-zero dosage focused on esoteric elements of terroir.\u00a0 They are often angry and aggressive, the small dosage a clear attempt to avoid \u2018masking\u2019 those terroir notes.\u00a0 Mean-spirited wine \u2018gurus\u2019 aside, Jean-Claude Boisset, like us, sees Champagne as a beverage of pleasure.\u00a0 He tailored this bubbly with that in mind.<\/p>\n

As you can probably imagine, it wasn\u2019t easy for an American company (albeit one owned by a French dude!) to be able market something as Champagne.\u00a0 French \u2018authorities\u2019 weren\u2019t particularly receptive at first even though it came from the appropriate dirt and was made in Champagne.\u00a0 In the end, the bottle is here, Boisset won.\u00a0 We imagine that\u2019s what the term \u2018la Victoire\u2019 (the victory) on the label refers to.\u00a0 It\u2019s a fine choice for under $40.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

NO1 FAMILY ESTATE CUVEE NO1 BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS MARLBOROUGH NV – We figured the perfect place to start our bubbly piece was with No1.\u00a0 It was only logical.\u00a0 Actually it might seem a little audacious to call themselves that, but then Daniel Le Brun is from Champagne where the Le Brun family can trace … Continue reading “The Big Book of Bubbles: 2018”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2937,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[98],"tags":[412,410,406,432,100,414,431,409,413,411,407,408,403],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2910"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2910"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2910\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2983,"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2910\/revisions\/2983"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2937"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2910"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2910"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.winex.com\/stockreport\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2910"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}