We’ve spent a bit of print explaining the whole theory about how global warming has elevated quality in a number of climats in places like Burgundy. That plays right into our hands of finding delicious Burgundy ‘on the cheap’. But to recap briefly, because temperatures are a little higher than they were before, places that didn’t quite ripen before now hit that sweet spot. The whole determination of prices in Burgundy is based on historic performance. The warmer weather pushes the ripeness level in place that, previously, didn’t always hit the mark. For the time being you have riper, juicier wines but market mechanics have not yet let the prices catch up.
Bottom line, there is more delicious ‘little’ Burgundy around these days ay sensational prices. The 2019 vintage was particularly successful in a number of regions throughout France, not the least of which is Burgundy. We have presented some very engaging efforts from the ripe, round 2018 vintage. But as we start working through offerings from the 2019 vintage in Burgundy, we might even be a notch or two better. This lusty, fruit driven effort from Danjean Berthoux is a beautiful example of the vintage as well as a spectacular Burgundy value.
Danjean Berthoux has been on our radar for a long time, probably before global warming was the topic it has become. Located in Givry in the Cote Chalonnaise, Berthoux was something of the poster child for wines in less esteemed appellations that delivered far above their station. But 2019 has provided a richer, sweeter, juicier effort than we can recall previously. For the record, Pascal Danjean, who took over the family estate some 20 years ago, never fines or filters and eschews the use of new wood almost entirely, resulting in soft, supple wines that allow the terroir to shine.
The Danjean Berthoux Bourgogne Chaume Ronde 2019 comes from outside the demarcation line for Givry. There are 2 parcels that are located in the lower slopes of the hills in the commune of Jambles, below the Premier Crus. Being lower on the hillside means there is more topsoil sitting on top of clay and some limestone. One of the parcels, called the Chaume Ronde, was planted in 1948 (the other parcel a mere 50 years old). This wine comes from that 1 hectare older block.
Curiously we had tasted and enjoyed the 2018 version of this wine only a week before but the purveyor showed up with the 2019 in hand and it trumped the delightful 2018 by virtue of more flesh and richness in the mid-palate. Timing is everything. The Bourgogne is done entirely in stainless steel. As Burgundy goes, this has a fleshy palate of cherry and some darker berries, streaks of minerality, and spice notes. As always there’s a firm backbone of acidity underpinning the forward fruit but it stays in a supporting role.
As for reviews, it’s a 2019, so it just got here. Even so, we don’t expect a lot of ink on wines like this. As we have often discussed, Burgundy reviews are a hierarchal exercise performed by critics bent on reviewing the elite wines that don’t really require reviews. The last time Burghound reviewed this Givry-based domaine was 2003. There were some dismissive reviews from Vinous’ Neal Martin in 2016, probably penned after a Romanee Conti vertical, and that vintage alone. The point is wines like this don’t get the attention of the media, which is why you can get something this satisfying for this kind of price in an expensive place like Burgundy. The 2019s look to be a lot of fun and you can bet we’ll be drinking a lot of this delicious, angst-free, old vine Bourgogne ourselves.