VINOSIA 2007 PRIMITIVO

  

If you can remember all the way back to a couple months ago, we talked about this new project involving the sons of the owner of the Feudi di San Gregorio winery.  We talked about their striking Aglianico, one of the most compelling values we have ever offered from this distinctive grape variety unique to the volcanic soils of Italy’s Campagnia region.  The brothers Ercolino (Luciano and Mario, the winemaker) had a reputation for fashioning really compelling examples of traditional, regional wines at Feudi, including some fine examples of the aforementioned Aglianico (Serpico, Taurasi Montevergine), as well as indigenous whites like Falanghina and Greco di Tufo.  For Vinosia, they have reached out to Italy’s deep south, working with varietals like Zinfandel’s ancestor, Primitivo, forming the Puglian backbone for this promising new enterprise. 
Now there could well have been yet another smokin’ Rhone here in the ‘pole position.’  But Italy generally rocked in 2007 as well, and there have been a bunch of juicy, tender and engaging wines from here of a manner that happens maybe once per decade (think 1997).  The depth and plushness of this wine is atypical for something from ‘the boot’, but certainly very easy to get accustomed to.  This wine also, while boasting a round, captivating core of juicy black and red fruits, shows a freshness to the flavors that is surprising from a region whose wines generally flirt with over-ripeness and rusticity.  This thoroughly modern, versatile beverage is a tribute to the skills of the brothers, a great ambassador for what you can expect out of the 2007s from Italy, and, of course, a screaming deal, which is what matters most.