This delightful, character-filled, fresh little Spanish white breaks all kinds of barriers in the true spirit of baseball season, where apparently no fact is too trivial to have records kept about it. Here we have not only the first Godello, but the first still Spanish white to be on the cover of the Stock Report (such as it is). Not only is this small producer in the region of Valdeorras (roughly translated as “valley of gold”, a name that has been used since Roman miners first arrived) a new source for us, it is a screaming deal. But first the facts. Godello is an indigenous varietal that almost died out here because it was simply too much trouble to farm. But there is a concerted effort to bring the grape back because the wine that comes from these temperamental grapes grown on these slate covered hillsides is truly distinctive. Think of it as being a mix of some of the best aspects of a Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Albarino and dry Riesling all rolled into one mouthful. The nose is floral and laced with a refined minerality. It has some broadness on the palate and reveals flavors of apple, stones, grain, and peach, all coming together for a nicely orchestrated, bright lift to the dry finish. A plate of seafood, a salad, or a pleasing glass all by itself, this works on many levels and has the verve to stay refreshing when the weather gets warmer. For us this was an easy call and is one of the more interesting new whites we have found in a while. There is a ‘step up’ from this in the winery’s line but we liked this one better. It’s a distinguished bottling for the fare and can boast an Advocate 90 as well. Celebrate the summer with a Spanish white? Porque no?
