LES APHILLANTHES 2004 V V COTES DU RHONE

We know there are still ‘old timers’ out there that will still grouse that $20 used to buy them Chateauneuf. Well, the world has changed and the dollar is in the tank. More to the point, Daniel Boulle’s Cotes du Rhone bottlings can stand up and usually surpass all but the elite Chateauneufs, and those cost a lot more. His Vieilles Vignes (old vines) cuvee comes from vines that are 60-100 years and had the classic southern Rhone preponderance of Grenache (80%) with the kind of unusual twist of 20% Mourvedre for the balance. You get that fat, expansive kirsch fruit as the greeting with an kind of introspective cool fruit aspect underneath. The 2004’s have more of an infusion of garrigue and a bit more lift, making them quite food friendly and versatile and this one performs well beyond the appellation.