David Schildknecht writes in Wine Advocate: "'You have to forget everything you know about Gewurztraminer and imagine you have never tasted this variety before in your life,' said Humbrecht before pouring me a deeply-colored glass of his 2004 Gewurztraminer Rangen Clos Saint Urbain, another of those that went entirely dry, in this case finishing with 15.6% alcohol. In its outrageous intensity of smoky, peaty, flinty aromas; in its voluminous and saline (oceanic in both senses!), peaty, positively tannic palate; and in a finish of such brute force that not even Humbrecht could resist reaching for volcanic (and not just geological) metaphors, this is (again in his words) 'only for people who can handle so much terroir.' I may have passed that test, but I shall also pass on rating the results, or speculating as to how this utterly distinctive Rangen concentrate might evolve. I suspect (and, dare I say, 'hope'?!) that it is destined to remain unique. Certainly this site is seldom likely to receive as much autumn rain as it did in 2004, but Humbrecht assures me that of all his Rangen vines, this Gewurztraminer was the least affected by botrytis."