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May 22, 2012

The 2009 Bordeaux: It's showtime


We certainly don't have to remind peole how much has been said about the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux. If you have heard the quotes from Robert Parker such as "this is unquestionably the greatest Bordeaux vintage I have ever tasted" once, you've heard it many times. The 'boats' are starting to come in and it's the final leg of this 'greatest story ever told" for Bordeaux. It's showtime.

If it is all about scarcity, they apparently don’t come too much rarer than this one . According to Wine Advocate, only 100 cases of Reserve de Louis 2009 were made (according to the chateaux's website it's 200 but that still isn't very much). The estate, formerly known as Rol de Fombrauge, was purchased by the late Thierry de la Brosse (also the proprietor of Paris bistro, L’Ami Louis, that has been written about many times by Robert Parker). The property is managed by the well respected Stephane Derenoncourt.

In 2009, yields were a tiny 18 hl/ha here because the vineyards got hit by hail during May. Made from 100% Merlot from a single hectare on the estate, Reserve de Louis sees a good dollop new oak. This is a big, lusty, modern Bordeaux with loads of black and dark red fruit, vanillan accents and style aplenty.

Given the rarity and the review, not to mention the prices in general for 2009 Bordeaux, Reserve de Louis 2009 is clearly a very shrewd acquisition for savvy buyers. Also on the slate today are a couple of other smart buys. Robert Parker calls the 2009 Poujeaux , "The finest wine I have tasted from Poujeaux over the last 33 years, the 2009 is the second vintage under the ownership of the Cuvelier family, who made the absolutely monumental 2009 Clos Fourtet." Finally, there's the Fonplegade 2009, the best one thus far for this St. Emilion property. One did not hear a lot about Fonplegade prior to American Steven Adams taking over and bringing in Michel Rolland, but they are doing fine work these days.

There's plenty of talk about how expensive this vintage is, too. True, there are some rather steep prices on the top three dozen wines. But these are values not only vis a vis other Bordeaux, but successful efforts from anywhere. Good hunting.

LA RESERVE DE LOUIS 2009 SAINT EMILION N8
score: WA 94

add to cart $34.99   add a case $419.88

Robert Parker writes in Wine Advocate (#199 Feb 2012): "From a tiny parcel, the 2009 La Reserve de Louis is 100% Merlot from the vineyard’s clay and limestone soils. Yields here were 18 hectoliters per hectare, and the grapes picked late, with malolactic in barrel and post malo-lees aging. This sensational wine is showing considerably better than it did in barrel. The alcohol is slightly lower than the regular wine at 14%, but the impression is one of luxurious rich... read more

POUJEAUX 2009 MOULIS EN MEDOC
score: JS 93
WA 92
IWC 90

add to cart $29.99   add a case $359.88

What a difference ownership makes.  This consistent, solid Moulis has been a value star for years as well as the acknowledged ‘top dog’ in Moulis.  But in 2008, the Cuvelier family (who also own Clos Fourtet, one of Robert Parker’s  100-pointers in 2009) took the helm and there is definitely a difference in this wine’s breeding and presence.  The blend here is 50% Cabernet, 40% Merlot and the balance Cab Franc... read more

FONPLEGADE 2009 SAINT EMILION
score: WA 94
WS 93

add to cart $45.99   add a case $551.88

Robert Parker writes in Wine Advocate: "The 2009 is a strong effort from this American-owned property situated on the lower hillsides of St.-Emilion where the soils are a mixture of gravel, clay and decomposed limestone. A dense purple color is followed by copious black fruit aromas (plums, blackberries and figs) intermixed with hints of graphite, chocolate and wood smoke. Full-bodied, substantial and large-scaled with intense fruit, terrific purity and a modern style, this b... read more

 

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